26th September 2022

It's a Monday and we're round Simon's for Firefly: The Game.
It 'aint' the time to misbehave, it's actually time to play a Sandbox board game in the world of the cult short lived sci-fi show, Firefly.
Now with the requisite joke quote out of the way, it's time to get down to business.

• Cards: Firefly: The Game uses cards to power the game play and a lot of them too, about 400 cards in fact! Mostly in 13 decks at my counting!
  • Story cards: Objectives and winning criteria will vary from game to game and the story card selected at the game start will determine the objectives.
  • Starter Cards: There are 2 types of starter card and each player will have one of each
    Leader cards: These are captains that each player will be given. Leader cards are illustrated and are also similar to crew cards, they have professions, skills and special abilities.
    Drive Core cards: Each player will also have one of these which are placed in the respective slot on their ship board. The drive core determines how far a ship can move.
  • Supply cards: There are 5 decks of supply cards, 1 deck corresponds to a specific sector on the maps. Supply cards are broken down into 3 types.
    Crew: These are characters that can be hired by players. Crew have various stats, including profession, skills and special abilities. Crew can be 'moral' (Or not.), they also have a hiring cost.
    Gear: These can be weapons or other items which can be assigned to crew.
    Upgrades: These cards can be assigned to the player's ship to improve it's capabilities or add new ones.
  • Contract cards: There are another 5 decks of contract cards, again 1 each for each of a specific sector. Contracts represent 'jobs' or 'missions' that players can undertake. Usually this is a delivery of some sort or committing a criminal enterprise.
  • Nav cards: There's a mere 2 decks of nav cards! One deck for Alliance space and the other for border space.
    When player's move their ships through space, they will draw a card from the relevant deck and resolve it. Mostly these have no effect but sometimes they will be an encounter or problem to overcome. Sometimes it'll move the Alliance ship (Bad news.) or the Reaver ship (Really bad news!).
  • Misbehave cards: This is the final deck! Players be frequently directed to 'misbehave', this involves drawing and resolving these cards. They represent crimes or capers that players will need to successfully complete. Usually players will be presented to 2 different capers which will present a different task each to achieve.
• Tokens: Firefly: The Game also makes use of a lot of tokens.
  • Cargo/Contraband: These square cardboard tokens each fit on to 1 space in the ship's hold and can be shipped or smuggled.
  • Passenger/fugitive: Again these are square tokens that fill 1 space on a ship board.
  • Fuel: These card tokens are oblong and half the size of square tokens, thus 2 can fit in 1 space in a hold. Fuel is spent to power a ship's drive core.
  • Parts: These are also oblong tokens and are spent to fix problem with a ship.
  • Disgruntled tokens: These round card tokens feature a unhappy face and are used to track crew when they become unhappy.
  • Goal tokens: These are also round tokens. Story cards will have multiple goals that must be completed. Whenever a player completes one of the goals, they acquire a goal token.
  • Warrant tokens: When a player commits crime or misbehaves badly, they may acquire one of these round tokens. It means that the authorities have noticed the player and may make life hard for the ship or crew.
• Models: There are no meeples here, instead there are little plastic models to represent space ships.
  • Firefly ships: There's 4 firefly ship models on stands, 1 in each of the player colours.
  • Reaver ship: Used to represent Reavers who prowl Border Space, these models are also on stands.
  • Alliance ship: This model is relatively and suitably huge compared to the others and represents an Alliance cruiser.
• Money: Firefly: The Game uses paper money! That's both unusual for a modern game and also pretty cool.
• Dice: There are 2 dice that come with the game. They are normal six-siders except the '6' has been replaced with a firefly ship logo, although it still counts as a '6'.

I don't usually talk about this because it has no impact on the game itself but Firefly: The game has a huge footprint, i.e., it takes up a lot of table space.

How's it play?
Setup

• Board: Put out the game board and complete the following steps.
  • Ships: Put the Alliance and Reaver ships in their respective starting spots.
  • Supply cards: Sort the supply cards into their 5 types and shuffle each into a face-down deck. Finally draw 3 cards from each deck to form a discard pile for each supply deck.
  • Contract cards: Also sort contract cards by type and shuffle them into 5 face-down decks. Again draw and discard 3 cards from each deck for create their  respective discard piles.
  • Nav decks: Sort the nav decks by type, then shuffle the remaining cards into face-down decks.
  • Misbehave deck: Shuffle the misbehave cards into a face-down deck.
  • Story card: Shuffle all the story cards into a face-down deck and draw one. This will be this game's objective.
    Alternatively, players may collectively decide on a story card to use.
• Players: Put out the starter cards and shipboards. Players then roll off with a die to determine the order in which they choose their starter cards and ship boards.
  Then in reverse player order, players choose where to place their ships on the game board.​
  The player to last put their firefly model on the board starts the game as the first player.
  Next, give each player 3,000 credits, 6 fuel tokens and 2 parts tokens. The tokens should all be placed on cargo spaces on each player's ship board.
  Finally, all players draw 1 contract card from each contract deck, giving them 5 contract cards. Players are allowed to keep up to 3 contract cards in hand and may have up to 3 active contracts at a time.

On to play
Firefly: The Game doesn't have set objective, instead it has differing story cards, one of which will be used during a game. Each story card will have a series of goals that must be completed and whoever does them all first, wins!

Firefly: The Game follows the usual turn structure with the active player taking their turn before play progresses to the player on their left.

• Actions: During the active player's turn, they can perform 2 actions as described below. They may perform 2 different actions or repeat the same action twice.
  • ​Move: There are 2 types of movement a player can chose when moving their ship.
    Mosey: The player can move their ship 1 sector, this is slow but safe movement. If a player is adjacent to their destination, they'll probably mosey there.
    Full burn: Now this is more like it. This requires the player to spend a fuel but allows them to move their ship a number of sectors equal to the range of their drive core.
    There's a consequence for doing this though...
    Every time their ship enters a sector, they must draw a card from the nav deck for the region of space they entered.
    Nav cards mostly have no effect and allow the active player to continue moving but some will give them encounters to resolve or problems to address, usually in the form of a skill roll (More on skill rolls below.) or may force them to full stop which means their movement for that action ends. Sometimes it will allow the active player - or another player move the Alliance or Reaver ship a space and sometimes it will pull the ship directly on to the players sector, in which case they must deal with it.
    The Alliance ship will search the player's ship but won't do much to a player unless they're carrying contraband/fugitives or there's a warrant on the ship or crew. In this they'll lose the contraband/fugitives and may lose outlaw crew, they'll also have to bribe the Alliance to get rid of warrants.
    Encountering Reavers is much simpler, if deadlier. They Reavers will kill all passengers/fugitives and kill some of the crew too! However, if the player has the right crew and fuel, they can evade the Reavers.
  • Buy: If the player's ship is in a sector with a supply deck, they may buy stuff!
    Players may look through the pertinent supply deck discard pile for cards they want or draw from the deck until they have 3 cards, then they may buy up to 2 of them. returning any unbought cards to the discard pile.
    Additionally, the buy action also allows the active player to purchase fuel or parts.
    ​If for any reason, any of the crew has disgruntled tokens, the active player may spend credits to remove them with shore leave.
  • Deal: When the active player is in sector with a contract deck, they may use an action to look at 3 cards from either the discard pile or drawn from the deck and keep 2 of them to complete at a later stage of the game.
    Players can also buy or sell contraband if they have a 'solid' reputation i.e., good reputation in that sector.
  • Work: The active player may spend an action to work, there are several types of work that can be undertaken.
    Cash: If they active player is in a sector with a planet, they may spend an action to earn some credits.
    Job: Each active job a player has will require several steps that need completing in order to finish that contract. An action may be spent to complete a step, sometimes this requires a skill roll.
• End turn: Once the active player has completed their 2 actions, player progresses to the player on their left.
• Other rules: There are a whole bunch of situational rules, some of which are touched upon below.
  • Skill rolls: Many tasks and actions will require a skill roll to complete. Some tasks will offer a choice in how to resolve it with differing difficulties and outcomes. Some tasks may also require certain prerequisites before rolling.
    Difficulty: A skill roll's difficulty is determined by a number, the higher the number, the harder it is to successfully complete.
    Bonuses: A player may gain bonuses from various sources, predominantly, this will come from characters. Every point a character has in the relevant skill will be added to the roll. Gear cards may also add to a skill roll.
    ​​​​​Roll the dice: When a skill roll is attempted, the active player rolls a single die. If the result (Plus any applicable bonus.) is equal or higher than the difficulty, they succeed. If the active player rolls the firefly icon icon it counts as a 6, then they get to roll the die again and add it to the result of the first roll (Which will be a 6.), thus, no matter the difficulty, there's always the possibility of succeeding at the roll.

Endgame
Firefly: The game works hard to replicate the feel of the show and to a certain extent, it does this very well. It successfully captures the feel of hustling round a system, wheeling and dealing, dodging authorities and making profit.
All of this though, is only half of what the TV show was, the show was also about the family you make and the stories they collectively create, stuff that's quite hard to replicate in a game and is missing here since players are each playing separate crews. Having said that, there's definitely a bit of emergent gameplay and some elements of storytelling going on here but his brings me to one of my bugbears about the game.

When you're playing it feels a bit like a single-player game that happens to have other players in it. There's a little bit of interaction here and there that comes from sending the Alliance or Reavers after other players or trading and crew poaching but it doesn't feel significant.

Firefly: The Game is sandbox game that appears to offer a lot of choice, is a lot of game with a lot of rules and rules exceptions and also a lot of components which I feel will be off putting to more casual gamers. A fan of the show who isn't a gamer will probably find Firefly: The Game hard going at the start.

Despite the breadth of rules, the game is fairly straightforward in what it asks players to do.

One of my other bugbears is that players will often find themselves delivering something, this might be legal or illegal or performing a crime/misbehaving. All of this will involve travelling around and risking running into the Alliance or Reavers or other obstacles and so on.
The consequence of this is that because the game is so single-player driven that ultimately, it's a race to complete the goals as efficiently as possible and even though it's meant to be have open sandbox gameplay, players are being somewhat funnelled through the game by those goals. I.e., the game-winning goals are all the same, it's how those goals are achieved that will differ between player.

The game also has a fairly long playtime, we played a beginner story card with a low player count and it still took 2 hours. Although, to be fair, that's not really uncommon with this style of play so it comes with the territory but be prepared to commit a few hours to a playthrough.

If you're a fan of the Firefly TV show and are prepared to prepared to invest some effort learning the rules time to play, you'll probably enjoy this.
Personally, I'm not sure how I feel about Firefly: The Game overall, it was a fun experience and my decisions generally felt meaningful, it also fairly involved and having players run around dong their own thing also felt a little unengaging. However, if someone else wanted to play it, I wouldn't object.

25th September 2022

Sunday is here again and we're logged into Board Game Arena for some gaming goodness.

Sea Salt & Paper is a pun that plays on sea salt & pepper in this quirkily ocean and err... origami themed set collecting card game.

Caveat: We've only ever played Sea Salt & Paper digitally.

​What's in a game?

• Cards: Sea Salt & Paper has a deck of 50-odd cards. Each card will have several icons in the top left indicating what they are, what bonus they might provide and what victory points (VPs.) they confer.
  Cards come in quite a few different types and also importantly, in one of about 10 colours.
  • Duo cards: Many of the cards in the game are duo cards, which means they are played as pairs. They have a icon in the corner along with the outline of the icon it pairs with. Most duo sets require 2 matching icons, e.g., a pair of crabs or a pair of boats. One duo pairing however, rather grimly requires a shark and a swimmer!
  • Collector cards: These cards have an icon in the top left corner with a column of numbers below. VPs will be scored accordingly, dependant on the number of that collector card that have been acquired.
  • Multiplier cards: Each multiplier card has a number and a icon. Each card with a matching icon scores that many VPs at the end of a round.
  • Mermaid card: Mermaid cards earn VPs based on the amount of cards of 1 colour a player has the end of a round.
    Additionally: If a player manages to acquire all 4 mermaid cards, they win the game, regardless of VPs, they just win!

Sea Salt & Paper makes use of a genuinely unique art style which looks like the creators constructed origami models themed after the game such as mermaids, crabs or penguins etc and then photographed them. Or perhaps high quality renders have been produced in a computer art program. Either way, the game has what I think a fantastic, eye catching theme, colourful and of course, they get to use the Sea Salt & Paper gag.

The game uses 10 colours for cards - and that's a lot. Fortunately each colour has a unique icon associated with it which a handy and welcome accessibility aid.
The downside is that Sea Salt & Paper has quite a lot of icons, there's about 4 icons for each type of card. Luckily most of them are intuitive or fairly obvious.
I don't think it's too difficult to learn may be off putting during early plays.

How's it play?
Setup

• Deck: ​Take all the cards and shuffle them into a face-down deck.
• Discard piles: Next, the game's 2 discard piles must be created by drawing 2 cards and placing each one into the central playing area face-up in 2 stacks.

That's it for setup.

On to play
Sea Salt & Paper is played over a varying number of rounds until a scoring target has been met. Furthermore, rounds will have a varying length and after a certain point, each round can be ended by any player.
The game follows the usual turn structure with the active player taking their turn before play progress to the person on their left.
There are 3 actions a player can perform in their turn.

• Draw card: The active player must draw a card into their hand, there are 2 ways this can be done.
  • Draw from discard pile: The active player may draw a card from either of the 2 discard piles.
  • Blind draw: Alternatively, the active player may draw 2 cards blindly from the deck.
    Then they keep 1 card and place the other on either of the discard piles.
• Play duo: In addition to drawing a card, the active player may also play cards. Cards are always played in pairs (Or duos.). Each type of duo gives the active player a benefit of some sort.
  • Pair of boats: Active player immediately gets another turn.
  • Pair of crabs: Active player takes a card from a discard pile into their hand.
  • Pair of fish: Active player adds a card from the deck into their hand.
  • Shark & Swimmer: The active player takes a card from another player's hand.
• End round: Finally, provided the active player has scored at least 7 points from duos they have played and cards in their hand, they may choose to end the round. There are 2 ways this can be done
  • Stop: The active player declares 'Stop', the round immediately ends and goes to scoring.
    Scoring: there are various sources for scoring points. Unusually, both played cards and un-played cards in hand are scored.
    • Duos: Each pair of duo cards scores 1 VP, regardless of whether it has been played or not! However, cards in hand do not activate their special abilities in any way.
    • Collector cards: These cards will score points VPs depending on the size of their respective collections.
    • Multiplier cards: These will score VPs as per the number of that icon the player has in their possession multiplied by the scoring multiplier.
    • Mermaids: Mermaids score using something called a colour set. A colour set is all of a player's cards of the same colour.
      The active player scores 1 VP per card in their largest colour set. I.e., the player gains 1 VP per card for each card with the colour which they have the most of on their cards.
      Additional mermaids: If a player has a 2nd mermaid, it scores the second largest colour set and so on.
    • Finals scores: Once scores are calculated and tallied as described above, they should be recorded before play progresses to the next round.
  • Last chance: This is the other way the active player may trigger the end of a round. This method adds an extra element to the scoring criteria which is essentially a push-your-luck mechanic where the active player is betting that their score for the round will be higher than all the other players.
    Final round: When the active player declares 'last chance', all other players get one more turn to draw and play cards.
    Scoring: The game then goes to scoring. This is essentially identical to how scoring is calculated above but with a significant change once points are tallied.
    • Active player has highest score: If the active player (Who declared last chance) has the highest or tied highest score, they have won their bet! They then also add the value of their largest colour set to their score for the round.
      Other players: All the other players ignore their current scores, instead only scoring their largest colour set.
    • Active player does not have highest score: This means the active player has lost their bet! The active player ignores their score and only scores their colour set.
      Other players: All other players score their cards as usual.
    • Final scores: Once scores are calculated and tallied as described above, they should be recorded before play progresses to the next round.
• ​​End turn: If the active does not or cannot end the round, then play progresses to the player on their left.
• End of round: Regardless of how a round ends, players should record their scores and all cards are shuffled back into the deck in preparation for the next round.

Endgame
There are 2 ways Sea Salt & Paper can end.
Firstly and least likely, if a player manages to acquire 4 mermaid cards... they win!

Otherwise, the game has a endgame scoring target, which is 30-40 VPs depending on player count. When this target is reached during scoring it triggers the game end and players calculate their final total VPs.

Points are tallied, highest score wins.

Overall
Broadly speaking, Sea Salt & Paper is fairly straightforward; collect sets and play duos. There are several ways to collect sets, including based on colours. Players will often be faced with various on which card to take and optimisation is key here.
Although players will also need to adapt to circumstances as they may need to deal with cards they might not initially want.

Sea Salt & Paper however, puts some quite unusual and unique mechanics into play that have unusual impact on the game and the way some of these mechanics synch up is interesting.

I'm struggling to recall another card game in which cards that are played and cards in hand score equally. It's very important here though since it ties in with the mechanic that allows players to bet on 'winning' the round. 
When a player chooses to announce 'last chance', they'll know what cards other players have played but they won't know what they've kept in their hand. This means there's always an element of push-your-luck because the announcer will never know what others have kept back.
Canny players may decide to not play duo cards in an attempt to lure others into a false sense of security but the trade off is that they won't get utilise those cards' benefits.

There's also a higher level of play about noting what cards other players take and responding. 
Drawing cards blindly gives the player a useful ability of using one of them to cover a card in one of the discard piles, potentially denying it to another player if you think they want it.

While Sea Salt & Paper players has a moderately quick playtime and is mostly easy to learn, it's a bit fiddly when it comes to scoring.
Not only do players have to score both played cards and ones in hand but sometimes they need to discard their scoring and score again... but differently thanks to someone triggering 'Last Chance'.
I'm not sure the the gameplay this push-your-luck mechanic adds to the game is worth the extra hassle it causes with scoring.
Sea Salt & Paper is also seems like something of a slow burn when it comes to gameplay which boils down to choosing which card to take and whether to play duos or not. It can feel a little unexciting or unengaging.

Mechanically, there's some fun things going on with Sea Salt & Paper but the game didn't quite grab me in the times that we played it but as I said, it could just be a slow burn that requires a few more plays to grasp. I wouldn't object to trying it again.

20th September 2022

Tuesday is here again and we're with the Woking Gaming Club at The Sovereigns in Woking.

Recruit and assemble your citizens (Or heroes really.), build domains and vanquish foul enemies in this fantasy adventure themed dice rolling and tableau building game.

What's in a game?

• Player boards: These oblong boards are used by each player to track the game's 3 resources; Gold, Strength, Magic and also Victory Points (VPs.).
• Tokens:
  • Resource tokens: There are wooden tokens that match the shape and colour of each of the player board's 4 tracks and are used to track them on player boards.
    Card resource tokens: These cards tokens replicate the wooden resource tokens... only in cardboard.
  • Extensions: These card tokens are used to track resources which increase above 10.
• Dice: Valeria: Card kingdoms comes with 2 normal six-siders. These are plastic dice with indented numbers.
• Cards: Lots of cards and I do mean a lots that come in several different types.
  • Citizens: These cards represent the heroes that players will recruit to their cause and they share a number of features.
    These include knights, peasants, butchers and so on. Some of these folk don't seem much like the adventuring type but I guess it takes all sorts!
    Activation number: In the top left corner of each citizen card is its activation number. Activation numbers range from 1-8 or can be 9/10 or 11/12.
    There are 2 different citizen cards for each activation number which can be mixed and matched during setup.
    Role: Each citizen has 1 of 4 roles and this is shown in the top right corner. Types include Worker, Soldier, Shadow and Holy.
    ​Cost: On the left side, alongside the citizen's name is the cost in gold to recruit the citizen. Recruiting duplicate citizens usually gets more expensive.
    Abilities: Finally, along the bottom edge of the card are its 2 abilities. One of which is activated in the player's turn and the other which is activated in other players' turns.
    Typically, abilities include gaining some of the game's several resources or changing one resource into another.
  • Starter citizens: These are 3 starter cards which all player begin the game with, this includes 2 citizen cards and a Herald which gives players a consolation resource if they get nothing from activation. More on activation below.
  • Duke cards: Duke and duchess cards are all unique and provide provide players with asymmetrical scoring opportunities.
  • Monster cards: A fantasy adventure game without evil monster to battle wouldn't be very good and Valeria: card Kingdoms features some famous fantasy opponents. Each monster card shares several statistics.
    Location and type: In the top right corner of every monster card is its location, which can be mountains, swamp etc. There are 8 types of location.
    Type indicates how tough a monster is  and goes from minion to boss.
    Strength: To the left of the monster's name is listed it's strength. This how many of which resource(s) must be spend to vanquish it, this is usually just strength but may also include magic.
    Victory points: Top the right of the name it will list the monster's VP reward which will be earned at the game end for defeating it.
    Reward: Along the bottom of the card it will display the immediate reward a player earns for defeating that monster. Rewards can take a variety of forms.
  • Domain cards: As well as slaying monsters, a player's citizen's can also go out and build (Well purchase actually!) domains. All domain cards share certain information.
    Role requirements: Shown in the top right corner are the role requirements to acquire that domain card. E.g., a domain may require a worker and holy role citizen cards or 2 soldier role cards.
    Cost: To the left of the card's name is the cost in gold to purchase the domain card - provided the player also has citizen cards that match its requirements.
    Victory points: To the right of a domain's name is the VPs it earns at the game end.
    Reward: Listed along the bottom of the card is the reward it provides to the player that purchases it. This can be a one-off bonus or a ongoing benefit.
  • Exhaustion cards: These cards simple say exhaustion and are used to track when the game end may occur.

Component quality is the usual good quality you'd expect from a modern game like Valeria: Card Kingdoms.
Card quality is fine as are the card tokens and the player boards.
Wooden tokens for resources are always a welcome addition.
The dice are plastic and feel a little 'square' but they have indented numbers which is good.

Valeria: Card kingdoms features good art throughout. Cards are well illustrated with colourful chunky pictures of heroic citizens and intriguing domains, my favourite though, is the artwork for monsters that brashly depict menacing enemies.

There's quite a lot of iconography throughout the game, from types of heroes and monsters, to terrain types and ability icons.
For the most part, they are fairly intuitive - matching the roles on citizen cards to the requirements on domain cards is obvious but some of the abilities, particularly on  domain cards are a bit esoteric and will require some looking up in the rulebook.

I don't think it's especially beginner or casual friend but ​by no means is it a gamebreaker either.

How's it play?
Setup

• Players: Give each player the following:
  Player board: Give each player a player board and the 4 resource tokens to go with it. Strength and VPs start at 0, Magic at 1 and Gold at 2
  Starter cards: Give each player their 3 starter cards.
  ​Duke cards: Shuffle the duke cards into a face-down deck and deal 2 face-down to each player. Then each player should select 1 to keep hidden and discard the other out of play.
• Central playing area: The monster, citizen and domain cards will be set out in 4 rows of 5 stacks per row as follows.
  Monster cards: Sort the monster cards by location and choose 5 locations. Take the cards for those 5 locations and create a row of 5 face-up stacks of monster cards. Each stack should also be sorted by monster type, with the weakest at the top and strongest at the bottom.
  Citizen cards: Decide which citizen cards will be used and sort them by activation number. There should be 10 stacks with 5 cards in each stack.
  Place them into 2 face-up rows of 5 stacks, with activation numbers 1-5 on the top row, while 6-8, 9/10 and 11/12 go on the second row.
  Domain cards: Shuffle the domain cards into a face-down deck. Deal 2 cards face-down into a row of 5 stacks, finally deal 1 domain card face-up on the top of each stack.
• Exhaustion cards: Take a number of exhaustion cards equal to twice the player count and put them in to the central playing area.
• First Player: Determine a starting player.

On to play
In Valeria: Card Kingdoms, players will be rolling dice to activate cards to accumulate resources which in turn can be spent to acquire more citizen cards, domains and monsters.
The game follows the usual turn structure of the active player taking their actions before player progresses to the player on their left.
During a turn, the following phases occur.

• Dice roll phase: The active player rolls both dice. The result of this roll will determine which citizen cards will activate.
  Reading the dice: The dice are red 2 ways, individually and as a pair.
  E.g., rolling a 2 and 5 means that cards with activation numbers 2, 5 & 7 will activate.
  Rolling doubles like double 4 means that 8 activates and 4 activates twice.
• Activation phase: Players now resolve citizen cards with activation numbers that match the result the result of the dice roll.
  This means the active player resolves the left hand ability on all their activated cards.
  All other players resolve the right hand ability on all their activated cards.
  No activations: If none of a player's citizen cards activates, the Herald activates instead and this gives the unfortunate player 1 of the 3 resource of their choosing.
• Action phase: The active player must now perform 2 actions, this can be 2 different actions or the same action twice.
  Spending resources: 3 of the 4 available actions requires the active player to spend resources. In most cases, the magic resource can substitute for other resources provided at least 1 from the original resource is also spent.
  E.g., if a card costs 4 gold, the player must spend at least 1 gold but can substitute magic for any other part of the gold cost.
  The 4 actions are:
  • ​Gain resources: Each action spent allows the active player to gain 1 of the 3 resources.
  • Recruit citizen: The active player can recruit a citizen from the central area by playing their gold cost. This card is immediately placed into their tableau and will be ready to activate in the next roll.
  • Defeat monster: For an action, the active player may defeat the monster on top of any monster stack. They must spend the relevant strength and/or magic to do so. The player immediately gains the reward and the monster card is put into their victory stack.
    VPs from monster cards are not earned at this time.
    Additionally; as monsters are defeated, stronger and stronger monsters are revealed.
    
  • Build domain: The active player may spend an action to build the top domain card on any stack provided they meet the role requirement and spend the relevant gold.
    The domain card is then placed into their tableau. If the domain provides an immediate benefit, then the player resolves that benefit now. Ongoing benefits will as determined by their description.
    Finally, a face-down domain card is flipped to replace the one just taken.
    As with monster cards, domain cards not earn their VP until the game.
• Empty stack: Any time that any of the 20 stacks in the central playing area becomes empty, an exhaustion card is put in the empty spot.
• Next player: Once the active player has taken their 2 actions, play progresses to the player on their left who begins their turn by rolling the dice.

Endgame
Play in Valeria: Card Kingdoms continues until any 1 of 3 game ending criteria is met, which are:

• All monster cards have been vanquished.
• All domain cards have been built.
• All allotted exhaustion cards have been placed into the central playing area.

Regardless of the method that triggers the endgame, play continues until the end of the round and all players have had equal turns.

A player can earn VPs from a variety of sources.

• VPs from the player's personal board.
• Total VPs from all monsters defeated by the player.
• Total VPs from all domains build by the player.
• VPs earned by meeting the scoring criteria on the player's Duke card.

Points are tallied, highest score wins!

Overall
I'll start by saying I quite like the implementation of the fantasy theme both in presentation and execution. It is slightly abstract but gathering a band of heroes to go off and fight monsters and build domains feels good.

Like many engine and tableau building games, there's a distinct early game in Valeria: Card Kingdoms about players building up their tableau, in this case with citizen cards and a late game about gaining increased resources to acquire monster and domain cards as well as VPs.
However, because players get 2 actions during their turn, there's some opportunity for optimised actions, card synchronicity and thus meaningful decisions. Getting the right citizen card can lead to getting a domain card for example. Getting a good domain card early can be a big boon dependant on its ability.
This means there will be a fairly constant flow of cards being drafted from the central area. Players will find themselves competing to get the cards they want as quickly as possible and is the game's primary form of interaction between players.

In fact: Thanks to every card having an ability that can be activated in other players' turns and also being able to read the dice both individually and as a pair making card activations more common, means the game generally flows quite rapidly. Players will often have something happening outside of their turn.
Like many drafting games, there's a higher level of play here that comes from watching what other players are doing and potentially trying to stymie them. The addition of duke cards messes with this though, providing players with unique and unpredictable objectives.

​​Valeria: Card Kingdoms is a solid iteration of the dice rolling, card activating, tableau building game style and players of those games will be on familiar ground here. To compliment this, there's also a couple of innovative touches to do with reading the dice and card activating that make the game fresh.

Despite its brisk playtime, the game does has a fairly involved setup process and also an abundance of iconography which makes for a slightly steep learning curve.
​Don't that put you off though. Valeria: Card Kingdoms is well worth a try.

18th September 2022

We're on Board Game Arena​ for some gaming goodness.

Use your deductive reasoning to... Break the code, a puzzle-like game of logic and elimination.

Caveat: We've only ever played Break the Code digitally.

What's in a game?

• Tiles: There are 20 tiles in Break the Code and they are numbered form 0-9 twice, one set has black numbers and the other white, except for the number '5' which is green in both sets.
• Question cards: Players ask each other questions to solve the game's central conundrum but are limited to using the questions that appear on these 21 cards.
• Screen: The physical version of the game comes with a screen for each player to hide information from other players, most important of which are the player's own numbers.
  The screen also has 5 columns labelled A-E which will correspond to the player's own 5 tiles during the game.
• Notepad: This is a pad of reference sheets used by players to record the results of questions asked throughout the game. The top part of the sheet lists the 20 numbers on the tiles which can be struck off as they are eliminated.
  Below that is a grid that has a column labelled A-E and rows for each other player, allowing players to cross-reference information about columns and players.

There's little to no art in the game and to be honest, the game is a fairly abstract almost puzzle-like game that doesn't really need it.
Presentation wise, it's clear and easy to understand.

Break the Code also has no iconography unless you count numbers. There's nothing here that would prove an obstacle to players.

How's it play?
Setup
The setup for Break the Code differs some what between a 2 player count and a 3-4 player count.
The setup here is for 3 players.

• Players: Give a screen and a sheet from the notepad to each player, as well as a pencil.
• Tiles: Shuffle the tiles into a face-down stack.
  Depending on player count deal 5 tiles to each player face-down and 5 face-down into a central playing area.
  Players: Each player should now secretly look at their own tiles and arrange them numerically from left-to-right, positioned face-up behind their personal screen so that each number is in a column with a letter. I.e., the lowest number will be in the A column and the highest will be in the E column.
  Central tiles: The tiles in the central area should remain face-down and be revealed until the game is over.
• Question cards: Shuffle the question cards into a face-down deck. Deal 6 cards face-up into the central area.
• First player: Determine a starting player.

On to play
The objective in Break the Code is to deduce the value and colours of the 5 tiles in the central area before anyone else. This will be done by asking other players questions (Using the questions on the question cards.) about their own tiles and then by matter of elimination discovering which tiles are in the central area.
Break the Code uses a traditional turn order with the active player resolving their turn before play progresses to their left.
On their turn, the active player can choose 1 of 2 actions.

• Ask a question: The active player picks one of the 6 available question cards and the other player must truthfully answer its question.
  Questions might include:
  'How many odd tiles do you have?'
  'How many of your tiles have a white number?'
  Record result: Once players have given answers, all players should record what has been said on their sheet. Thus, even when it's not a player's turn, they should pay attention to answers given.
  Discard: Once a question card has been used, it is discarded and a new one is drawn in its place.
• Guess tiles: Instead of asking a question, the active player may choose to guess what 5 tiles and their colours are in the central playing area. A player only gets one chance to guess the tiles!
  First the active players writes their guess down on the allotted spot on their sheet. Then, without revealing the tiles, the active player peeks at them and declares whether they were wrong or right.
  Got it right: If the active player has correctly surmised which tiles are in the central area, play continues until the current round is finished, this potentially gives players later in the round a final chance to guess the tiles.
  Got it wrong: If the active player got it wrong, they are out of the game and play progresses as normal but without them! They must continue to truthfully answer other players' questions.
• Next player: Regardless of whether the active player asked a question or made a right or wrong guess, play progresses to the player on their left - unless the active player got the right guess and is also the last player.

Player count
There are a couple of differences in setup and player according to player count.

• 4 player: A 4 player game only differs from a 3 player in 2 regards:
  Only 4 tiles are dealt to each player and the central area. This means the 'E' column is not used in 4-player games.
  The active player must also answer the question they asked.
• 2 player: In a 2 player game, 5 tiles are dealt to each player, no tiles are dealt into the central playing area. Players are now instead trying to guess each other's 5 tiles.
  Additionally, players are not eliminated from play for making an incorrect guess.

Endgame
If all question cards have been used and no one has made a correct guess, all players lose!
Additionally, if all player make incorrect guesses, then again, all players lose.

When a player makes a correct guess, the end of the current round is played out, the game ends and they are the winner. There is a chance however, that other players may also make a correct guess with their last action. In which case, all players who guessed correctly are declared winners.

Overall
There's not much to say about the mechanics of Break the Code, it's a very straightforward game that is essentially a multiplayer puzzle; ask questions and eliminate extraneous numbers until you are left with only the correct numbers.
Since questions are solely based on the available cards it means there can be a need for a bit of lateral thinking and trying to gleam information from awkward questions. I suspect that if players got to ask the questions they wanted, it would end a game quickly or break it!
It's also vital to listen to answers given to other players' questions.

Players first eliminate their own tiles which leaves them with about 10-12 more tiles to eliminate. They must cross-reference multiple answers to get the information they need. E.g., They may learn a player's first tile is a black number, then they may learn it's a odd number, then they may finally learn it's a 1 and so on.
Conversely, players will sometimes get a lot of information quickly, e.g., learning the tile in the E column is green means it must be a 5 and that it is also the highest number a player has behind their screen.
It's this kind of reasoning that drives Break the Code and if that sort of fairly heavy puzzle orientated game play doesn't appeal to you, then this is one to avoid.

Myself; I quite like puzzles but I'm not so sure about a multiplayer one, it's not something I feel lends itself well to multiplayer. I will add that we did play it online and over voice chat which could make it feel somewhat disjointed compared to face-to-face..
Having said that, I did enjoy Break the Code but found once I had 'broken' the code, there was very little motivation to go back to it another time.

8th September 2022

It's a Thursday evening, it's Aldershot, it's time for some gaming goodness.

​Channel your inner Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen and Kevin McCloud as you attempt to build your... Dream Home in this drafting, set collecting game.

What's in the game?

• Game board: This is not really a game board but more of a drafting board.
  There are 2 rows of 6 card spaces each, the first space of each row is dedicated to placing the game's 2 deck of cards.
  Thus the top row is the resource card row and the bottom row is the room card row.
• Home board: These are actually player boards. Each one depicts a 3 level idyllic suburban home.
  The bottom floor depicts a porch or entrance (Which essentially uses up 3 spaces) along with a 'garage' (Which is actually the basement) and consists of 2 card spaces. 
  The middle floor has 5 card spaces.
  Finally, the top floor also have 5 card spaces - giving a total of 12
• Cards: Dream Home uses 2 decks of cards.
  Room cards: These cards all show various rooms you would find in a typical house, bathrooms, kitchens and so on. Room cards are used by players create their home and are colour-coded according to type. There are normal rooms, basement rooms and unique rooms.
  Many types of room cards can be placed adjacent to cards of the identical type. 
  At the bottom of each room card it will display 1 or more numbers, which indicate both the maximum 'size' that room can reach and also victory point (VP) value of that card for reaching the that size if other cards of the same type are placed adjacent to it.
  Resource cards: This type of card provides players with benefits or bonuses, which may be once-only, ongoing or game end VPs.
  There are roof cards, décor cards, tool and helper cards.
• Tokens: These are décor tokens, each one is uniquely shaped according to the resource card it corresponds to and will also display a VP value.
• First player token: I don't usually write about the first player token but this is a fairly chunky wooden styled in the shape of a house.

​Component quality is the usual good standard found in most modern board games. The cards are fine, the board and tokens are constructed from sturdy cardboard. The first player token is chunky and made from wood, it's obviously a bit of a gimmick but it's the kind of gimmick I'm a sucker for!

Dream Home has fantastic artwork throughout. The Illustration used on the home board is good, however, the standouts are the cards and tokens which feature excellent colourful and distinct depictions of home spaces. Interestingly, many cards will feature children hidden among the furniture. This is more than just a aesthetic choice which will be explained below.

Most information is conveyed via text and there's no iconography that needs learning.

How's it play?
​Setup
This is the setup for 4-player games, in game with lower player counts, some cards will be discarded after being placed on the game board.

• Game board: Sort the cards by type and shuffle them into 2 face-down decks.
  Resource row: Place the resource deck on to the leftmost space on the top row.
  Next, leave the 1st space to the right of the deck empty, it's used to indicate the first player token, a resource card never goes here.
  Finally deal 4 face-up cards on to the 4 remaining spaces in the row.
  Rooms row: Put the room deck on the leftmost space on the bottom row, deal 5 face-up cards on to the 5 spaces in this row.
• Player board: Give each player a player board.
• First player: Determine a starting player and give them the first player token.

On to play
Dream Home is played over exactly 12 rounds and players will be putting room cards on to their personal game board to build their home and gaining resource cards.
This is done by drafting pairs of cards from the same column, that is, 1 resource and 1 room card - except for the leftmost space, in which case they acquire a room card and the first player token.

Turn order is slightly different to the usual here: The player with the first player token goes first and play progresses to the left until all players have taken their turn. However, it's possible that the first player token will change hands during a round, consequently, in the following round a new turn order would be established.

During their turn, the active player takes the following actions.

• Take cards: The active player must choose a column and take the resource and room card from that column.
  First player token: If the active player chooses the first column, they only get a room card, however, they also gain the first player marker and will go first in the next round.
• Place room: The active player must place the room card they just drafted with the following restrictions:
  Basement: Basement cards must go on to 1 of the 2 basement spaces.
  Build up: All other room cards must be placed on top of the porch or on top of another room card, this can a basement card or be another room card in the case of placing room cards on the top floor.
  ​Size limit: Players will want to put cards of the same type adjacent to each other to maximise VP scoring but a room cannot exceed it's size limit. E.g., a bedroom can consist of 2 adjacent bedroom cards, a 3rd bedroom card cannot be placed adjacent to that room.
  ​Can't play: If for any reason, the active player cannot play a card, they can place it face-down as an empty room which will score 0 VPs. Empty rooms follow the same placement rules as explained above.
• Resource cards: There are 4 types of resource card.
  Décor cards: When one of these cards is taken, the active player also takes the corresponding décor token. The token must immediately be placed on a room that matches the token and can provide bonus VPs at the game end. When this is done, the room is considered finished, that is, no more room cards can be added to that room.
  If a décor token cannot be placed on a matching room, it is discarded.
  Helper cards: These cards generally provide some sort of bonus scoring criteria during the game end.
  Roof cards: These come in several different colours and when a player acquires a roof, they turn it face-down and place it on their home board's roof.
  These cards cannot be looked at again until final scoring at game end!
  4 Roof cards can score bonus VPs at the game end and more if they are of a matching colour. This means players will need to memorise those colours.
  Tool cards: These usually provide some sort of benefit during the game.
• Next player: Once the active player has resolved the cards they took, play progresses to the player on their left.
• Next round: Once all player's have taken their turn, play progresses to the next round and the following occur.
  Clear board: All face-up cards remaining on the game board are discarded out of play. 4 new resource and 5 new room cards are drawn and placed as per the setup rules.
  Turn order: Whoever has the first player token will be the starting player in the new round. If the first player token did not change hands because nobody chose the left most column, then whoever retained the token will be the starting player again in the new round.

Endgame
Dream Home is played over 12 rounds and after the last round, the game goes to scoring. There are various avenues to earning VPs.

• ​Room cards: These score points according to their type and size. E.g., a living room consisting of 3 cards will score 9 VPs.
• Décor: These tokens will score points as listed on them.
• Functionality: Players earn points for having certain type of rooms in their home. A home with a bathroom, bedroom and kitchen will earn VPs for example.
• Roof: Players can now look at their roof cards. If a player has at least 4 roof cards on their roof, they score 3 points. If a player can have set of at least 4 roof cards of the same colour then they earn 8 VPs.
  Windows: Every roof card that has a window scores and additional VP.
• Additionally; certain cards can also provide VPs.

Points are tallied, highest score wins. In the case of a tie, the player with home board showing the most children on the cards wins!

Overall
Dream Home strikes a balance between ease of play and depth. Players will be faced with the conundrum of having to build outwards before building upwards.
It might not seem like much but it's unlikely that players will get all the cards they need at the time they need them.
The larger room sets will score more points per card but unless a player gets the right cards at the right time, it's likely that they will have to leave gaps when collecting bigger sets, which can make it tricky to build upwards.

The drafting mechanic also provides players with a meaningful choice. Again, it's unlikely that players will always get the 2 cards they want, often they will need to compromise on which resource and room card to take as well as adapt to circumstances as they are occur.

Finally, the first player mechanic is also interesting. Gaining the first player token feels costly because the player only gets a room card but it can play dividends in the following turn. There will times when going first can be extremely useful.
Conversely going last can be painful as the last player will only ever have a choice of 2 columns to pick from.

None of this is ever too complicated, the sets are never too big and intricacies that can arise from syncing resource cards such as décor cards with room cards is never too complex.

Dream Home also doesn't outstay its welcome. Being played over 12 rounds keeps it moving along briskly and provides a fairly concise experience, unless you're playing with a sufferer of analysis paralysis!

It's fair to say that Dream Home is a lightweight and accessible iteration of the 'draft-and-place' multiple components, set collecting mechanic seen in quite a few games.
This accessibility along with it's top-notch presentation means that it's probably a good game to play with younger participants or more casual gamers.

For me though: While I feel that Dream Home does provide a good experience for younger and more casual gamers, I'm not sure it has long term appeal to more dedicated gamers. I enjoyed the game but it's fairly simplistic nature means I'm not sure how often I'd like to play it.

The gaming totals for August '22 are below.
Less sessions were played in August, but the variety of games was higher, no doubt partially due to 12 first plays!

Total games: 45
Different games: 35
​First plays: 12

Tuesday 2nd at The Sovereigns with the Woking Board Gaming Club
Wingspan
​
Thursday 4th at Simon's
Cascadia - First Play!
Switch & Signal - 4

Friday 5th at Aldershot
The Crew: Mission Deep Sea - 32
Heckmeck - 12
Trails - First Play!

Sunday 7th on Board Game Arena
Regicide - 9
Splendor - 19
Cloud City - 14
Stella - Dixit Universe - 10
Railroad Ink - 33
Can't Stop - 21
Lucky Numbers - 37

Tuesday 9th at The Sovereigns with the Woking Board Gaming Club
Isle of Cats - 2

Thursday 11th at Aldershot
Dungeon Decorators - First Play!
Love Letter - 59

Sunday 14th on Board Game Arena
Parks - 11
Potion Explosion - 13
Loco Momo - 11
Love Letter - 60
Can't Stop - 22
Lucky Numbers - 38

Tuesday 16th at The Sovereigns with the Woking Board Gaming Club
Jaws - First Play!

Wednesday 17th August - Simon's
Raiders of Scythia - First Play!

Thursday 18th at Aldershot
Heroquest - First Play!

Saturday 20th on Board Game Arena
Tranquility - First Play!
Race for the Galaxy - 17

Sunday 21st on Board Game Arena
Forbidden Island - 13
Noah - First Play!
Chromino - 2
Codex Naturalis - 23
Love Letter - 61
Martian Dice - 20
Lucky Numbers - 39
​
Friday 26th at Farnborough
Heckmeck - 13
King of Tokyo - 9
Jump Drive - 10

Saturday 27th on Board Game Arena
Dungeon Twister - First Play!

Sunday 28th on Board Game Arena
Burgle Bros - First Play!
Carcassonne - 9
Loco Momo - 12
Railroad Ink - 34
Can't Stop - 23
Lucky Numbers - 40

Tuesday 30th at The Sovereigns with the Woking Board Gaming Club
Scout - First Play!
​The Crew: The Quest for Planet Nine - First Play!