27th June 2023

It's a Tuesday evening which means its time for some gaming goodness with the Woking Gaming Club at The Sovereigns.

Indulge in some power dressing with a shoulder-padded jacket while you invest in frozen concentrated orange juice and don't for get to, buy, sell, sell! 

Earn more than all your opponents in Stockpile, a game about manipulating the stock market.

Player board: Stylised after a notepad of sorts. Each player gets one of these in their player colour. These board are large enough for spaces to hold 2 stacks of cards which are marked as 'stock' and 'split stock'.
They are used to store stock cards that players acquire, stock cards stored here are always stored face-down.

Stock ticker tokens: These ring-shaped tokens are used to track the values of each company's stock.

Stockpile's components are all good quality, the tokens, boards, cards and meeples are what you'd expect from a modern game. They seem suitably sturdy.
Using small, laminated cards for cash is a little unusual but it works.

There's some nice use of colour on the main board which consists of some art that depicts it as a a office desk.
For the most part though, artwork in Stockpile consists of logos, either for the 6 different businesses or the game itself. It's fairly straightforward art but it's also colourful, uncluttered and gives the game a vibrant appearance.

A fairly low amount of Iconography is used in Stockpile. There some icons to represent the different companies and indicate changes in stock value but that's about it. It's all self-explanatory and doesn't present a barrier to players.

How's it play?
Setup

• Game board: Put the game board into the central area and place out the money to create a 'bank'.
  Stock prices: Place the stock ticker token for each companies on their starting spots.
  Turn marker: Place the turn marker on its starting spot on the round tracker, player count will determine which spot it goes on to.
• Cards: First sort the cards into their 3 types (Market cards, company cards & forecast cards.) then give each player 1 stock card from each of the 6 companies. Players should place this card on their player board on the stock portfolio side.
  Finally, shuffle each type of card into it's own face-down deck to create 3 decks
• Players: Give each player the player board and meeple in their colour.
  ​Money: Deal starting funds to each player.
• First player: Determine a starting player.

​On to play
In Stockpile, players will first be creating pile of stocks (Stockpiles if you will!), then they will be bidding on those piles. Furthermore, they will be doing this with limited knowledge of what will be happening to the stock prices and what lies in the piles of stock.
Stockpile is played over a number of phases each round.

• Information phase: Deal 1 company card and 1 forecast card to each player, which they should keep hidden. This means each player knows what will happen to the stock price of exactly 1 company during this round.
  Next deal 1 of each type face-up on their respective spaces on the game board, this represents open knowledge that particular company.
  Finally, with the remaining cards, create a face-down stack of each, these will be revealed later.
• Supply phase: During this phase, the stockpiles will be created, one each below a bidding tracks.
  Player count: The number of bidding tracks used is equal to the player count and thus the stockpiles created will be equal to the number of bidding tracks used.
  First card: Draw 1 card form the market deck for each bidding track being used in the game and place it face-up below its pertinent bidding track.
  This creates the start of each stockpile.
  Deal cards: Now deal 2 cards from the market deck to each player. These should be kept separate from any cards they already have on their player board. They should also be kept hidden from other players.
  Play cards: Now, going in turn order, each player should play both of the cards they were just dealt.
  They can be played in any order to separate stockpiles, or the same one.
  However, one card must be played face-up and the other must be played face-down. This means that stockpiles will end up having some sort of mix of face-up and face-down cards.
• Demand phase: During this phase is where most of the game's activity takes place, players will bid for the available stockpiles which were created in the previous phase using the bidding track.
  The following rules apply to bidding.
  Turn order: Bidding goes in turn order with the active player bidding before play progresses to the player on their left.
  Cash only: During bidding, player cannot bid more than the money they currently possess.
  Bids: The active player may place their bidding meeple on any empty space on any bidding track. A player can even choose to immediately bid on the maximum 25 spot if they wish to.
  any bidding track that has a meeple on the 25 space is considered locked and cannot be subject to any further bidding.
  Other bids: However, if another player has already placed a bid on a bidding track, any bid that follows must be a higher value, it cannot match or undercut the current bid.
  ​Outbidded player: When a player is outbidded, their meeple is returned to them, giving them the opportunity to bid again on their next turn.
  There can only ever be 1 meeple on each bidding track.
  Passing: If a player's meeple is still on a bidding track when it comes to their turn, then they skip bidding for this turn. They are not 'out' though and it's entirely possible that the meeple will be returned in a subsequent round.
  End of bidding: When each bidding track has 1 meeple on it, bidding has ended.
  Pay your dues: Players now pay their winning bid to the banks and collect their cards, this includes any face-down cards.
  Trading free cards, regardless of whether they were face-down or not, will have an effect after being collected which will require the collecting player to pay extra money to the bank.
• Action phase: As well as collecting stock cards and being stung my trading fee cards, players may also collect action cards. All action cards collected must be resolved and this is done in turn order.
  Action cards may either push up the value of a company's stock or push it down, the collecting player chooses which company or companies are affected. Once all actions have been resolved, the phase is over.
• Selling phase: During this phase, players may choose to sell shares they control from their player board to the bank. This can be either from the stock portfolio or split-stock portfolio, although stock in the split stock portfolio counts as 2 stocks, so can be sold for double the normal value. The money gained from selling is equal to the stock value of the company whose shares are being sold.
• Movement phase: After the opportunity to sell stocks in the previous phase, it's time to see how their prices will fluctuate.
  First, in turn order, players reveal their company and forecast cards, then the stock's value for that company is altered accordingly - more on this below.
  Next, the stock value for the company with open knowledge is resolved and finally, the face-down company and forecast cards are revealed one-at-a-time and resolved.
  Forecast cards: These do 1 of 3 things to stock value, they push it up or down by the displayed value or they pay out dividends which earns players with that stock money but does not alter its value.
  There are also 2 further effects that may be triggered by changes to stock values.
  Split stock: If a stock's value is moved above 10, the stock is then split.
  This means the value is reset to 5 and any stock players had in their stock portfolio is moved into their split stock portfolio. Thus the value is halved but the stock is doubled, leaving room for growth later.
  Bankruptcy: If a stock's value goes below 1, then that company has gone bankrupt!
  The value is reset to 5 and all players must discard all stock they had in that company from both of their portfolios, ouch!
• Next round: Move the round tracker to the next spot on its track. The player to the left of the current first player becomes the first player in the following round.
  A new round begins with the next information phase.

Endgame
The game ends when the round tracker reaches the end of its track!
​There are now a couple of final phases that must be resolved.

• Majority: For each of the 6 companies, all players count up the shares they have in that company - split stock counts as double. Whoever has the majority in that company earns extra money. Ties earn a lesser amount.
• Sell, sell, SELL!: All players now sell all their shares back to the bank at the final value shown on the game board.

Players will now only be left with money which should now be counted up.

Values are tallied, highest amount wins.

Overall
Stockpile's theme fits its game fantastically, luckily, it's a theme that seems to translate well to gameplay - I guess that says something about real-life stock trading!
Players will find themselves trying to buy low and sell high - and trying to out do each other with a little bit of 'insider knowledge'.

Mechanically, Stockpile is relatively straightforward and uncomplicated. It does that neat trick of blending simple mechanics with quite deep gameplay, this is due to some extent on how players are actually playing each other and not the game!
There are two key ways players interact with each other.
​
Firstly and most obviously is the auctioning element which always brings a lot of factors to think about: How should I bid for something? Can I run up someone else's bid? Etc
The clever twist here is adding the rules for creating the stockpiles especially since half the cards are always played face-down. It can be used to give someone a nasty surprise or hide something you don't want opponents to have. Conversely, cards can be played face-up dissuade opponents from bidding for a specific stockpile or perhaps lure them into buying pile. This is all of course contextual and requires a player trying to keep an eye what stocks their opponents have been buying.

There's definitely a higher level of play that comes from trying to gauge an opponent's motives. Watching which companies shares they are playing cards into into which stack or bidding for. Or, especially during the selling phase, seeing someone ahead in the turn order dump their stock in a particular company might mean they know something that's going down and maybe you want to try and stymie them or perhaps get in on the action.

There's not much more to add really; Stockpile is an easy to learn game that provides meaningful decisions and lots of player interaction, all of which I found a lot of fun.
If auctioning mechanics are not your thing, Stockpile one to avoid but otherwise, it's definitely one to try.

20th June 2023


It's a Tuesday evening and we're with the Woking Gaming Club at The Sovereigns for some gaming goodness.

Game of the night was Dice City: Create a city in this engine-building dice game! I don't about you but dice rolling is the best way to build any municipality!

Like most modern games, the component quality in Dice City is good and there's nothing bad here. While the cards are average, the boards and tokens feel sturdy, the tokens in particular are pleasantly chunky and tactile.
I would've preferred wooden dice to the plastic ones provided but they are good quality, having well rounded corners and deep pips.

There's a definitely a bit of a fantasy theme to the slightly cartoony and cheerful art style found in Dice City. It's colourful and eye-catching with a good variety to the art too, illustrations on both the large player boards and cards doing a good job of depicting their subject material with detail but without cluttering up the components. Even the art used on the resource tokens looks easy to see and detailed.
All the this lends the game a vibrant and bright presence on the table.

All the iconography in Dice City is easy to understand and is logical. Players should not have any trouble understanding anything here.

How's it play?
Setup

• Cards: To create the central drafting area, sort all the cards as follows.
  Base cards: First, sort all the lumber mill, mine, quarry and regular army cards into each of their 4 types and place the 4 decks face-up in a row.
  ​Location cards: Shuffle all the location cards into a face-down deck and deal 8 face-up alongside the base cards.
  Bandit cards: Sort the bandit cards into their 3 types and put a stack of each with cards in each stack as per player count.
  Trade ship cards: Sort the trade ships into their 3 types, then put out a stack of each type with cards in each stack as per player count.
• First player: Determine a starting player.
• Roll the dice: Every player should roll all 5 of their dice and place them on their player board accordingly.
  E.g., rolling a 5 on the yellow die means placing it on the 5 column in the yellow row and so on.

On to play
In Dice City each player will spend their turn resolving the 5 dice that have been placed on to their board. Essentially giving them 5 actions; this will give them options to gain resources and then buy cards or trade ships and launch attacks as per the dice results etc.
Dice City uses a typical player order with the active player fully resolving all their dice before play proceeds to the player on their left.
The active player's turn has several phases and goes as follows.

• Dice phase: The active player resolves the dice on their player board one at a time in the order they chose. A die is resolved by removing it from the board, then the active player can perform one of the following actions to resolve that die.
  Use space: Probably the most common action in the game. Once a die is removed from a space, the action on that space may be used. This can provide them gain or trade resources or allow them to generate army strength or gain VPs etc.
  Move die: this allows the active player to move a die elsewhere on their board.
  Reactivate space: Certain events can deactivate a space on a player board (More on this below.) and the active player can use the die removal to reactivate a deactivated space.
  Discard cards: Once per turn the active player may discard any 4 of the 8 location cards and draw new ones to replace them.
  Pass: Also once per turn the active player may pass an action to gain a pass token. Why is that useful? Glad you asked.
  • Additional actions: During the dice phase, pass tokens can be spent to gain extra actions. 2 pass tokens must be spent to gain an extra action, although this can be done multiple times in a single turn. The actions are as follows.
    Gain resource: The active player can gain the resource of their choice.
    Increase army strength: The active player may increase their army strength by +1.
    Force re-rolls: This bonus action forces all other players to reroll one of their dice!
• Attack phase: The active player may have generated army strength during the previous phase and it can now be used during this phase to 'attack'.
  To make an attack, the active player must have an army strength equal or higher than their target's defence value (In which case they can attack!). Furthermore, if the active player's army strength is high enough, it can be split among multiple target to attack them all.
  Army strength does not carry over from round to round and any unspent strength is lost at the end of the active player's turn.
  It should be noted that if a card doesn't have any defence value, it cannot be attacked.
  There are 3 types of attack that can be made.
  Bandit cards: Successfully attacking a bandit card allows the active player to claim it, adding its VPs to the player's total at the game end.
  Resources: The active player may target another player's resources (Which that player must have kept between their turns.), a successful attack will allow the active player to steal 1 or more of them depending on the army strength allocated to those attacks.
  Location: The active player may attack a location belonging to another player. A successful attack on a location will 'deactivate' it, consequently a deactivation token is placed on that location which now cannot be used until the token is removed.
• Building and trading phase: Now the active player can spend resources they have acquired. Unlike army strength, 1 of each of the 3 types of resource can be kept between turns.
  Build locations: The active player may build as many new locations as they can afford. However, when a new location is built, it will cover the current location which will be discarded.
  Trade ship card: Alternatively, resources can be spent to acquire a trade ship card.
• End of turn: Once the building and trading phase has finished, the active player's turn is over.
  Army strength: This reverts to 0.
  Resources: the active player can keep 1 of each resource.
  Pass tokens: Any number of pass tokens may be kept between turns.
  Roll dice: The active player rolls their 5 dice and places them as required on their player board in preparation for their next turn.
  Next player: Play now progresses to the player on the active player's left.

Endgame
​Play continues until one of the following criteria is met.

• All bandit cards have been acquired.
• At least 2 stacks of trade ship cards have been acquired.
• The location deck is empty.
• Optionally: If at least 2 rows of a player's player board has been covered with location cards and none of them contain a deactivation token, then that player may choose to trigger the game end.

Regardless of how game end is triggered, play progresses until all players have had equal turns.
Player now calculate their VPs which can come from the following sources.

• VP tokens.
• Location cards.
• Bandit cards.
• Trade ship cards.

​
Points are tallied, highest score wins.

Overall
​Dice City is not the first game to use dice-activations in a engine-building game with a city creation theme and while how the dice work on the board is an unusual mechanic, players will be familiar with a lot of the other concepts presented here.

They will need to adapt to both what their dice results give them to work with and what is available to draft from the location cards. Luckily players have some agency with the results in the form of dice-manipulation which can help but generally, they'll looking for ways to increase the efficiency of their player board and unlike a lot of game of this type, Dice City begins will a fully fleshed out beginner engine. Every die roll will always produce a result of some sort, so players will looking to increase the effectiveness of their results.
Ultimately, players will be looking to do things quicker than their opponents.

Something that Dice City does well is provide 2 clear avenues to accruing VPs - resources that can be used to improve a player's city or to buy trade ship cards, while army strength can be employed to defeat bandit cards or hinder other players' cities.
This adds an element of direct interaction - unusual for a game in this style with the ability to steal opponents' resources and deactivate their locations - especially locations with dice on them!
There's also a higher level of play where players can look at what's effective on an opponents board and target those spaces, even if they don't currently contain a die.
Additionally, a further element of player interaction are pass tokens which can be spent to make opponents re-roll dice.

Mechanically, Dice City is pretty straightforward with reasonably light rules that also generally provides players with meaningful decisions to make, both resources and army strength can have multiple uses and will give players options to think about.

I found Dice City to be an OK game and I hate saying a game is OK because it's a bit of a cop-out when trying to discuss games but that's exactly what Dice City is - OK.
Other than the possible direct interaction between players it doesn't do anything particularly different or special or new.
However, having said all of that, it also doesn't do anything badly and is a game that plays well enough to be engaging that I can't fault. Ultimately, while I found the game's presentation to be good, Dice City doesn't really standout for me.

If player interaction is something your big on or find important, Dice City has it and is a worth a look if you want a dice-driven city building game.
Conversely, some people don't like the confrontational element the direct interaction adds to the game. So 

I will happily play Dice City if someone else chooses it but it wouldn't be my first choice.

15th June 2023

Thursday night gaming in Aldershot continues with Formula Dé Mini.
Race around famous F1 tracks in this cut-down version of a classic racing game.

As the name might suggest, Formula Dé Mini is a smaller iteration of classic racing game Formula Dé which is itself re-iterated by Formula D.

I'm not going to do the usual blog for Formula Dé Mini because of it's similarities to Formula D. Instead I'll just list how it differs.

• Track: The tracks in Formula Dé Mini are smaller, not only in physical size but also in scope. The Formula Dé Mini tracks only have 1-stop corners and the track is only 2 lanes wide.

Component quality in Formula Dé Mini is comparable to the original Formula Dé. The boards are well made as are the tiles, cars, tokens and dice.
Using plastic gold discs for life points seems a little strange to me but they're as good as anything else for tokens.

The board features the same fantastic and detailed art that was found on the boards from Formula Dé .

​There's a little bit of iconography on the board but that's about it. Since Formula Dé ​Mini lacks the 6 types of resource from Formula Dé , all the icons and symbols related to those are gone, making this game easier to understand.

How's it play?
Formula Dé Mini retains most of the mechanics from the other games, playing almost identically: Read the Formula D blog for an overview of how it all works.
 
Formula Dé Mini broadly only differs in 2 ways, although many of the optional rules have been removed.

Firstly; the 6th gear is missing which makes sense considering the Formula Dé ​Mini tracks are somewhat smaller and it isn't really needed. It also removes one of the riskier  (And longest to count!) gear dice from the game, making the game slightly less complex.

Secondly, all of the types of resources (Gearbox, brakes, fuel etc.) have been removed and replaced with a single universal resource - the aforementioned life points.
Each car in Formula Dé Mini is given 16 life points at the game start.
Overshoot a corner? Spend life points instead of tyres.
Need to skip a gear? Spend life points.
Collide with another car or take engine damage? Spend life points and so on. you get the idea.
The game becomes notably easier and quicker to manage with a single resource.

Removed rules include those for weather conditions tyres as well for custom cars.

Finally, it's definitely worth mentioning that Formula Dé Mini is completely compatible with both other previous iterations of the game. That means all of the previously published tracks can be used with the Formula Dé Mini dashboards and components. Additionally, if you have the original Formula Dé core game, then the 6th gear dice can optionally also be used in Formula Dé ​Mini with those tracks.
​Excellent!

Overall
It seems obvious that the goal of Formula Dé Mini was to create an iteration of the original that was both easier to learn and faster to play and I think it succeeds at both.

Formula Dé Mini is somewhat easier to learn and play and is also a lot more forgiving in that regard.
The occasional mistake like having a car overshooting a corner by a lot of spaces might well cripple or eliminate that car in the full versions of the game but here, it would instead just cost more life points - although if a car loses all it's life points, it will still be eliminated.
The removal of the multi-stop corners from tracks that come with the game removes one of the more finicky aspects of the rules. This means the remaining rules are reasonably straightforward to learn and several of them are situational and might not even occur during the game.

Is Formula Dé Mini quicker to play? Yes, especially when using the supplied smaller tracks but even when using the 'full-sized' tracks play will a little faster. Reducing the resource management from 6 to 1 resource makes decisions quicker.
Even so, players will be faced with similar decisions to the full games. I'm impressed with how Formula Dé Mini manages to retain the 'feel' of the full sized games.
It's always fundamentally been a game about how much players are willing to push their cars through the corners and how much risk they're willing to take to do so, this hasn't changed. Sure, Formula Dé Mini may take the edge of that risk but it's still always there.

So how does Formula Dé Mini stack compared to the full versions of the game? The answer is; pretty good actually.
When I heard there was a version of Formula Dé ​that removed all the resources, I was pretty sceptical and sort of assumed that it would overly simplify or 'infantilise' the game but that wasn't the case. What you have is genuinely a quicker easier version of the game to play.

On a intellectual level I feel Formula Dé/Formula D is the better, more satisfying game to play.
On visceral level though, I found Formula Dé Mini very enjoyable to play. Some of the more challenging elements are gone but it means you can now blast round the tracks safe in the knowledge that you have some more wiggle room to mitigate those bad dice rolls!
It's an arcade racing game compared to a sim!

If you're looking for a quicker version of the game to play - or a way to introduce Formula D to players, this will definitely do the job.

While Formula De Mini remains long out of print, the still available Formula D utilises these simplified rules in its beginner game.
Alternatively, if you've got the original Formula Dé ​, you can simply acquire a bunch of tokens and play it that way.

I generally wouldn't choose Formula Dé Mini over the other versions but it's still a great game.

8th June 2023

​We're in Aldershot on a Thursday night for some gaming goodness and today's first play is Mint Delivery.
It turns out that somewhere out there mints are big business. There's even somewhere called Mintopia City and it's the centre of mint production!
​Players take on the role of delivery drivers fulfilling orders to the surrounding minty named towns.

How's it play?
Setup

• Map: Take the 9 map cards and placed in their allotted places in a 3x3 grid. This layout is always the same in all games.
• Players: Give each player the truck card and truck meeple in their chosen colour. All players should place their truck on the Mintopia space on the central map card.
  Order cards: Shuffle the order cards into a face-down deck, then deal 3 face-down to each player.
  Then all players can decide to keep any number of those cards, provided their total combined VP value does exceed 6 VPs. For the time being, players should keep their chosen cards hidden.
  All discarded order cards are returned to their deck.
• Orders: Now shuffle the remaining order cards into a new face-down deck.
  ​Next; deal 7 order cards adjacent to each of the 4 towns.
  Then, from each of the 4 decks, reveal 2 cards.
  Players should now reveal the order cards they chose to keep. For the rest of the game, players should keep unfulfilled orders always face-up.
• First player: Determine a starting player.

On to play
In Mint Delivery, players will be looking to acquire order cards and then fulfil those orders by taking the required mints to the required location. Completed orders earn players their respective VP values.
Mint Delivery follows a traditional turn structure with the active player taking their turn and then play progressing to the player on their left.

• ​Active player: In their turn, the active player may perform up to 2 actions. This can be the same action twice or 2 different actions in any order they see fit.
  In addition, players may also take a free action.
  The actions are:
  • Fulfil order (Free Action.): If the player has met the order conditions of one of their order cards and is at the correct location. Then, as a free action, they can spend the required mints to fulfil that order! The completed order cards is then flipped face-down.
  • Load/unload mints: If the active player's truck is at the right location, they may load 2/4 mints on to their truck (Up to the truck's 4 mint limit.). They may also unload mints.
  • Move: For 1 action, the active player may move their truck to an adjacent space.
  • Take order: If the active player's truck is at 1 of the 4 towns and they have less than 3 unfulfilled order cards,  they can spend an action to acquire one of the town's 2 face-up order cards. This is done by performing the following steps.
    Add mint: A mint must be added to the order card not being taken.
    Take order card: The player takes the order card they chose - if this has a 1 or more mints on it, then they also acquire the mints, provided it does not go over their truck's storage limit.
    Replace order card: A new order card must be from that town's order deck and placed face-up in the relevant space to replace the one just taken.
  • Upgrade mint: If the active player's truck is at the relevant location, they can upgrade a mint as determined by that location.
    2 white mints can be discarded to gain a green one and 3 whites turned into a red.
• End of turn: Once the active player has completed their actions, play progresses to the player on their left.

Endgame
Play progresses until the endgame is triggered by 1 of the following criteria is met:
​
If 2 towns have no face-up order cards remaining
Or.
All 4 towns have no cards left in their face-down decks (Regardless of whatever face-up cards remain).

Play then continues until all players have had equal turns. Players then calculate the VPs they've earned on their completed order cards.

Points are tallied, highest score wins - and is pronounced 'Employee Of The Month​!

Overall
Thematically, Mint Delivery is a collect-and-deliver game and the mint theme is arguably bit extraneous but on the other hand, it's a good a theme as any. The fact that the tokens being delivered look a bit like mints and the game comes wrapped up in a mint tin I think is fairly pleasing.

Mechanically, Mint Delivery is actually quite straightforward, perhaps a little too straightforward. The game's map layout never changes, the 4 towns will always be in the corners, Mintopia in the centre and the factories in the 4 cardinal points. It would have been nice to have some kind of layout randomiser but I imagine space inside that tin is at a premium!
Where the game does offer variety is in how order cards appear and since this is a game about fulfilling orders, that's pretty important.
Mint Delivery is essentially a race to deliver orders and players will need to mix planning the most optimal moves using the cards they currently possess with adapting to changing circumstances as they arise to exploit opportunities as they appear.
There's also randomisation in the form of road conditions which can change things up.
Finally, ability cards offer the opportunity for some asymmetrical play that potentially opens up more choices to players and meaningful choices are always a good thing.

There's not too much more to say really. Mint Delivery is a stripped down, bare bones collect-and-deliver game, if that's what you're looking for and you want it in clever little package, it's worth a try.
It's perhaps a little too long to be a simple filler game and not quite long or deep enough to be the main game of a gaming session but nontheless, I found Mint Delivery to be a fun, light  experience with a fairly quick play time and imagine it will play well with non-gamers.

28th March 2023

Tuesday is here again and we're with the Woking Gaming Club at The Sovereigns for an evening of gaming goodness.

Game of the night is Istanbul.

Ah, Istanbul, home of an ancient settlement and exotic gateway between the east and the west...
...Also a place where frenzied merchants rapidly push wheelbarrows around the bazaar, trailed by assistants while looking to acquire rubies in this worker placement game.

The component quality is good for nearly all of Istanbul.
The game makes good use of wooden components and dice which is always good. All the cardboard tokens and tiles are sturdy enough. The cards are also good.
It's all the quality you'd expect from a modern game.
The only criticism I have is that fitting the extensions into the wheelbarrow feels fiddly and when trying to put in the final extension it can be too tight and wont fit properly. It's a minor oversight that doesn't affect the game experience but it could have been a bit better.

There's unique artwork on all the location tiles. Even though it uses a pretty standard style of illustration, I think it looks good and gives the game a eye-catching presence on the table. I also feel that it's quite suitable, being evocative and colourful without obscuring important information.

Iconography in Istanbul is a bit of a mixed bag. Much of it is easily understood but the occasional icon and in particular, bonus cards will find players leafing through the rulebook for clarification.
This is fairly infrequent though and is a minor inconvenience rather than detrimental

How's it play?
Setup

• Players: Give each player the merchant, assistant, family member tokens and cubes in their colour.
  Wheelbarrow: Each player should take a wheelbarrow tile, then place their 4 cubes on the 4 'empty' spaces on their goods tracks.
  When players gain goods, they move the cube along the respective track.
  You will note at the game start, players can only have 2 of each good. By acquiring extensions, players can eventually hold up to 5 of each good.
• Tiles: The 16 location tiles will need to be put out in a 4x4 grid. This can be done either by using 1 of the 2 predetermined setups or randomly - although there are some restrictions using the random method. Additionally, many of the locations will have further setup.
  • Caravansary: Shuffle the bonus cards into a face-down deck and place them close to the caravansary.
  • Fountain: Each player should create a stack of 5 tokens with the the merchant token at the top and 4 assistants beneath and place their stack on the fountain location tile.
    The 5th assistant token should be set aside for the time being, they can be acquired during play.
    Gemstone dealer: Place rubies on the gemstone dealer location tile as per player count.
  • Markets: Sort the demand tiles into their 2 types. Shuffle each into a face-up stack and place them on to their respective market tiles.
  • Mosques: Sort the mosque tiles by type/colour, then sort each stack by goods cost, with the lowest at the top and highest cost at bottom. Then place 2 stacks on each of the 2 mosque tiles.
    Rubies: Finally add rubies to each mosque as per player count.
  • Police station: Each player should place their 'family member' cylindrical token on the police station location tile.
  • Post office: The post office has 2 rows of 4 spaces, place the 4 mail cubes along the upper row on the post office location tile.
  • Sultan's palace: Place rubies on the Sultan's palace location tile as per player count.
  • Wainwright: Place rubies and wheelbarrow extensions on the wainwright location as per player count.
  • Governor & smuggler: Roll the dice for each, then place their tokens on the location with the matching number.
• First player: Determine a starting player.
  The starting player should take 2 Lira, the next player gets 3 Lira, 3rd gets 4 Lira and so forth.
  Bonus card: Each player should draw a bonus card.

On to play
In Istanbul, players are attempting to acquire 5 or 6 rubies (Dependant on player count.) and the game provides a variety of methods to achieve this.
Istanbul follows the usual turn structure with the active player completing their turn before play progresses to their left.

During their turn, the active player will act in 2-4 phases - depending on circumstances.
The 4 phases always occur in the order shown below.

• Movement: The active player can move their stack of tokens up to 2 spaces during this phase, this cannot be diagonal and when the stack reaches its destination, one of the following must occur.
  • Drop off assistant: The active player takes one of the assistant tokens out of their stack and places it elsewhere on the same location tile.
  • Pick up assistant: If the active player already has an assistant token on the location space they stopped at, then they can add it back into their stack.
  • Pass: If the active player cannot or does not want to drop off or pick up an assistant, then their turn ends immediately unless the active player ended up at the fountain!
• Encounter merchant: This phase is conditional and if the active player ended their movement in a location tile with 1 or more merchants that belong to other players, then the active player must pay those players 2 Lira each.
  If they cannot or do no want to pay, then the active player's turn ends immediately, this does not occur if they stopped at the fountain.
• Action: This phase represents the bulk of gameplay and the active player may now choose to undertake the action for the tile they stopped at.
  There a quite a few actions a player can perform.
  • Black market: When the player's merchant is at the black market, they can gain 1 green/red/yellow good.
    Additionally, they should roll the 2 dice, the result will grant them 0-3 blue goods.
  • Caravansary: The active play draws 2 bonus cards into their hand and then discards 1 bonus card.
    When drawing cards from being at the caravansary location, the active player may choose to draw from the discard pile instead.
  • Fountain: When the active player's merchant is at the fountain, they can recall any number of their assistant tokens back into their stack.
  • Gemstone dealer: Here the active player may purchase a ruby. The more rubies that are purchased throughout the game, the more they will cost.
  • Market: When a merchant stops at one of the 2 markets, they can sell goods matching the demands on the current demand card. The more matching goods they sell, the more they earn. Each of the markets will determine how much the player earns.
    Regardless of how many goods are sold, the current demand tile is put at the bottom of the stack and a new demand tile is revealed.
  • Mosques: When a merchant stops at one of the 2 mosques, they can acquire one of the 2 mosque tiles there.
    To do so, the player's wheelbarrow must be carrying the goods that match was is shown on the top mosque tile. However, acquiring a tile costs only 1 good of the displayed tile.
    Once a mosque tile is taken, a more expensive version will be revealed beneath.
    Players can only have copy of each type of tile regardless of where they acquired it from.
  • Police station: When a player's merchant stops at the police station and if their family member is there, then the player can 'free' their family member.
    Since their family member 'knows how to get stuff', the player can immediately place the family member token on any other space and trigger its action. The family member does not have encounters and does not benefit or is restricted in that way.
  • Post Office: If the active player's merchant stops at the post office, they acquire all the items shown on the 4 uncovered spaces.
    After this, they must slide the leftmost cube on the upper row to the space directly below, thus changing the resources earned by the next merchant to stop here.
    When all 4 cubes are on the lower row, the next merchant to stop at the post office will claim their resources and put all 4 cubes back on the upper row.
  • Sultan's palace: When a merchant stops here, the player can trade goods for a ruby.
    As with the gemstone dealer, the more rubies that are acquired here, the more costly they become to trade for.
  • Tea house: Time for some friendly gambling! When a merchant stops here, the player announces a number from 3-12, then they roll both dice.
    If the rolled number is equal to or greater than the announced number, then the active player acquires Lira equal to the number they announced.
    If the number was lower, then they take 2 Lira.
  • Wainwright: Stopping here allows the merchant's player to buy an extension for their wheelbarrow. Once the 3rd and final extension has been acquired, the player can acquire 1 ruby from the wainwright tile.
  • Warehouses: There are 3 warehouses, one each respectively for green, red and yellow goods.
    If a merchant stops at a warehouse, they can fill the related good on their wheelbarrow to the maximum amount.
• Other encounters: As with the other encounter phase, this is conditional and depends on what tokens are also on the location where the active player's merchant stopped.
  • Other players' family members: If a merchant encounters the family member of another player on their location, they must snitch on them to the cops!
    This earns the active player 3 Lira or a bonus card.
  • Governor: When the governor token is on the same location as a player's merchant, the player can draw bonus card, then they must discard a bonus card or pay 2 Lira.
    After encountering the governor, roll 2 dice and move the governor's token to the location with the number that matches the dice roll.
  • Smuggler: When the smuggler is encountered, the active player may gain the good of their choice, they must then discard a good of their choice or play 2 Lira.
    As with the governor, after encountering the smuggler, roll the dice and relocate the smuggler to the new location.
• Bonus cards: These are not part of any phase in particular and the active player may play any number of bonus cards during at any time during their turn.

Endgame
The game end is triggered when any player acquires the required number of rubies.
​Play continues for the current round until all participants have had equal turns.
Finally, each player will have the option to play unused bonus cards, since Lira and goods act as a tie-breaker this can be important.

Rubies are tallied, highest amount wins.

Overall
I don't know whether it's deliberate or not but there's a slightly cynical thread of humour running through Istanbul. 
It's an amusing facet of the game that merchants are useless without assistants to boss around or how everyone has that one shady cousin who 'knows someone' or 'can get you stuff'.
Thematically, the game is presented quite well.
Your merchant and their little band go from place to place, looking to earn money or get goods in order to eventually gain rubies.

Mechanically, Istanbul is relatively straightforward. While there's quite a lot of tiles and consequently a lot going and a lot to think about and possibly remember, none of it in practice is actually overly complex.
Istanbul presents players with the conundrum of balancing the need to increase their abilities via mosque and extension tiles or trying to acquire rubies.
Broadly speaking, the game game provides some one-off way of gaining rubies but two main avenues to accumulating them - which are by spending goods or spending Lira and then providing several ways to acquire goods and Lira.
It means that Istanbul is a game of planning efficient moves and maximising actions. This is particularly the case when dropping off or picking up assistants. Well thought out play will allow a player to do this without visiting the fountain which requires an entire turn to gather assistants.

While the game is essentially a race without direct conflict between players, there's still some interaction that goes on.
There is arguably a higher level of play where players could try and anticipate the actions of their opponent allowing them to block opponents by putting their merchant on specific locations, forcing other players to pay out to go there or preventing them entering all together. However, this tends to occur by accident more than design.
Another area of interaction is at the markets, the more goods sold a player can sell an once at a market, the more money that player earns but taking longer to do this risks being trumped by another player fulfilling the demand tile earlier.
So players will need to occasionally adapt to situations as needed as well as planning their actions.

Istanbul does a good job balancing varied gameplay, strategy and meaningful decisions with ease-of-play, although I'm not sure I would describe it as entirely suitable for non-gamers but core gamers should have no problems comprehending the game
It also has a novel and clever implementation of worker placement mechanics which provide some satisfying moments when used effectively.

This is a mid-weight game with a somewhat lengthy play time - although it never felt overlong or unwelcome. I found it to be an enjoyable worker placement game. Istanbul   is a game that's definitely worth trying.

19th February 2023

It's Sunday evening again and we're logged into Board Game Arena for some gaming goodness.

Paint the Roses, it sounds a strange thing but that's what you do when in the kingdom of The Queen of Hearts in this 'Alice in Wonderland' themed cooperative game of deductive reasoning.

Caveat: We have only ever played this game digitally.

What's in a game?

• Game board: The central part of this board displays a cluster of hex-shaped spaces, each space contains a hedge or shrub.
  At the top of the board is a very picturesque palace decorated with a heart motif
  Running around the outside edge is what appears to be a scoring track and at regular points along this track are milestones or breakpoints marked out by white rabbits.

• Models: Not pertinent to the digital version of the game but the physical copy comes with 3d models to represent The White Rabbit, The Gardeners and the The Queen of Hearts.
  Additionally, there are 4 petal tokens that are used in conjunction with The Queen of Hearts and one-by-one are slipped beneath her model's base during the game, increasing her speed - which is not a good thing!
• Bag: This is also only part of the physical game and is used to blind draw shrub tokens.

Paint the Roses' artwork is pretty high quality, Art on whim cards and tiles look good and is easily understood but the standout art is on the game board. It's vibrant, colourful and eye catching, everything I think is good in game artwork.

Only 4 colours and 4 shapes are used in Paint the Roses, these are straightforward to comprehend and there's no other iconography.

How's it play?
Setup

• ​Game board: Put out the game board.
  Place The Gardeners tile on the '0' space.
  Place The Queen of Hearts tile on space '44' (Actually 6 spaces behind The Gardeners.).
  Place The White Rabbit on it's first milestone.
  Place the starting shrubs into their determined starting positions.
• Whim cards: Sort the whim cards into their 3 types and shuffle them into 3 face-down decks.
• Shrub tiles: In the physical game, these tiles would go into the bag.
• Greenhouse board: Randomly draw 4 shrub tiles and place them on the 4 available spaces on the greenhouse tile.
• Clue tokens: Give each player the clue tokens in their player colour.
• First player: Determine a starting player.
  Once this has been done, each player in turn order should draw a whim card from 1 of the 3 decks with the proviso that only 1 player can have an easy card at any time.

On to play
In Paint the Roses, the players are trying to collectively fill all 16 empty spaces on the game board while staying ahead of The Queen of Hearts model.
How is this done? By playing tiles, placing clues on them and using those clues to try and guess what is displayed on other player's whim cards.
Players must keep their whim cards hidden from other players, only revealing them when they are correctly guessed.
Paint the Roses uses a traditional turn structure with the active player completing their actions before play progresses to the player on their left. During the active player's turn, the following phases occur.

• Place tile: The active player must take one of the 4 tiles from the greenhouse board and place on any empty space on the board.
• Place clue tokens: All players then place clue tokens on the tile that was just placed.
  The number of clue tokens a player must place should be equal to the the number of ways the currently placed tile matches the colour/shape shown on their whim card.
  E.g., if a diamond shaped bush was just placed next to a spade shaped and any player had a whim card depicting a spade adjacent to a diamond, then that player must put a clue token on the newly placed tile.
  If the placed tile matches a whim card in more than one way, then clue tokens must be placed on the tile for each match. So if a spade was placed adjacent to 2 diamonds, 2 tokens would need to be placed on the tile
  If there are no matches, then no clue tokens are placed on the tile.
• Guess: Once clue tokens have been placed, the players must collaboratively pick any one of the whim cards and try to guess the symbols on that card. That is they're trying to guess which colour/shapes are shown on that particular card. Obviously, players cannot guess the symbols on their own card!
  • Correct!: If the players guess correctly, the following occurs.
    Discard whim card: The whim card that was correctly guessed is discarded.
    Move The Gardeners: The Gardeners figure should be moved a number of spaces equal to the value shown in the bottom right corner of the card that was just guessed. If this moves The Gardeners past The White Rabbit model, add a petal to The Queen of Heart's base (She will move faster from now on!) and move The White Rabbit to it's next milestone.
    Remove clue tokens: All clue tokens related to the correctly guessed whim card are returned to their player's hand.
    Guess again: After making a correct guess, the players may choose to make another guess, this is not mandatory and can be risky - as explained below.
  • Incorrect!: When a incorrect guess is made, the phase immediately ends.
• Move Queen: Once the guessing phase is over, The Queen moves and there are 2 ways this can happened.
  Correct guesses: If all guesses that were made were correct, The Queen moves her speed which is 1 space plus 1 space per petal under her base, thus she can move up to 5 spaces! That's not the worst though!
  Incorrect guess: If the players made a incorrect guess, The Queen of Hearts moves double her speed!
• End of turn: Once the Queen's movement has been resolved and the game has not ended, the following occurs.
  Replenish whim cards: Any player who discarded a whim cad now draws one from any of the 3 decks, the rule about only 1 easy whim card still applies.
  Replenish greenhouse board: A new shrub tile is drawn and placed on the empty space on the greenhouse board.
  Next player: Play progresses to the player left of the active player, who now becomes the new active player and a new turn begins.

Endgame
If the players manage to place shrub tiles in all 16 spaces and survive to the end of the round - that is; survive The Queen's final movement, the players collectively win the game!

If any time The Queen reaches the same space as The Gardeners or overtakes them; it's off with their heads. The players collectively lose the game.

Once a game is concluded, players can record their score, i.e., where they finished on the scoring track.

Overall
Thematically I found Paint the Roses a little abstract. Having The Queen actually chase the player model around the out of the board was a bit silly (Which thinking about matches the absurdness of the source material.) but also reasonably clever.
While I understand how the theme meshes with the mechanics, it all felt a little... detached.

​Mechanically though, Paint the Roses presents players with very tricky decisions and this is twofold.

Firstly, the active player must decide which of 4 shrub tiles to draft and how they can place it on the board to convey the information on their card. I think that there's also a higher level of play here where the active player can choose to play a tile to potentially help another player to convey information.
Secondly, once a tile has been put down, the players must make a guess. It's likely that this will involve a mix of deduction and also blind guessing. Easy whim cards are well... fairly easy to guess which is why players are limited to one easy card at a time, other cards are no so easy. Its important to successfully guess harder cards because it puts more space between the players and The Queen
There's also the element of trying to guess another card after a successful guess but it's genuinely higher stakes: A successful 2nd guess will give the players more breathing room but a wrong guess means that essentially any progress made from a guess has been lost. Double or nothing really.

These mechanics for guessing feel quite unique but also a little obtuse and harder to comprehend than they should be.
I don't think it helped that we were playing the game digitally and clue tokens were added automatically which sort of distanced us from thinking about what was going on.
I also felt being forced to guess every turn was quite harsh and The Queen advanced very quickly after relatively few failures. I feel that if players make a couple of wrong guesses in the early game, they'll be on the back foot for the rest of it - however long that lasts.

This brings me to the rule with the White Rabbit that increases The Queen's speed is quite interesting - although I'm not sure how I feel about it.
If The Queen has a high speed, an incorrect guess can move her a lot of spaces. It increases the stakes as the game progresses, meaning the players can never afford to be complacent.
The drawback is that it felt frustrating and counterintuitive, like we were being punished for being successful.

Between the difficulty and somewhat frustrating way the deduction worked, I found that I did not enjoy Paint the Roses, which is a shame, I like the idea of a cooperative, logic driven game.
I would definitely be open to trying the game physically as I might chance my stance  when actually handling the game but digitally speaking, this is not a game for me.

17th February 2023

It's a Friday and we're at Woking for a night of gaming fun.

Adrenaline, a fast paced head-to-head game inspired by first person shooters.

• Ammo tiles: These smallish square card tiles each display images of  up to 3 ammo cubes in various combinations. Some ammo tiles will display powerup cards.
• Victory points: These large and usually shaped tokens are used to VPs.

Adrenaline uses plastic damage tokens, card ammo tiles, transparent acrylic ammo cubes and skulls; it's an usual mix of materials but it works just fine.
The components are all good quality, the cards are fine as are the tiles and tokens. The plastic components all feel solid.

It's immediately apparent that Adrenaline makes good use of colour. This is particularly true of the game board, where bright colours are used to distinguish between different rooms - this is important for 'line of sight'. The component also look bright and colourful as well as easy distinguish.
The game's art is fairly good if a little underused - illustrations on weapon cards are a little small. Other than that I think the artwork is mostly reserved for character portraits.

There is quite a lot of iconography in Adrenaline, mostly on weapon and powerup cards, the game comes with a separate booklet to explain how they work - which is a little telling. Some of the iconography is intuitive and easy to comprehend, some of it not so much.
Luckily, it's not a gamebreaker and not much of an issue to learn but I do feel it will slow down the game somewhat unless at least 1 person has previously played.

How's it play?
Setup

• Game board: Set up the game board as per player count or as desired.
  Ammo tiles: Shuffle the ammo tiles into a face-down stack. Deal 1 face-up into each space that does not have a spawn point.
  Powerup cards: Shuffle the powerup cards into a face-down deck and place them on their allotted space on the board.
  Weapon cards: Shuffle the weapon cards into a face-down deck and place them in their allotted space. Then deal a total of 9 cards face-up into the spaces adjacent to each of the spawn points.
  Killshot track: Place the skulls on to their spaces on the killshot track. A normal game uses 8 skulls, but less can be used for a shorter game.
• Players: Give each player the board, action tile, damage tokens and model in their colour.
  Put out the player board on the 'normal' side and position the action tile (Also on the normal side.) alongside the board.
  Each player should then add 1 ammo cube in each colour to their player board.
• First player: Determine a starting player.

On to play
In Adrenaline, players are trying to earn as many VPs as possible. This is done by killing and more importantly, damaging their opponents.

During their turn, the active player can perform 2 actions, they can be different or the same action twice. The actions available are determined by what actions are on their action table and which actions have been unlocked on the players adrenaline track.
Broadly speaking, there are 3 types of actions, several actions actually combine different actions

• Move: The basic move action allows the active player to move up to 3 spaces on the board.
  All movement is orthogonally, players may move through doors but obviously not through walls.
• Pick up: Before picking up an item, the active player may optionally move 1 space. Then the active player may pick up an item in their current space. There are 2 types of object that can be picked up.
  Weapon: If the active player is in the same space as a spawn point, they may pick up one of that spawn point's 3 available weapon card and add it to their hand.
  Generally, there's a cost to picking up a weapon - the cost shown in the top left corner. However, when picking up a weapon, the first cost (In brackets, SIC!) is not paid.
  Players may have at most 3 weapon cards in hand.
  Ammo tiles: If there is a ammo tile in the active player's square they can collect the respective ammo cubes/powerup card and discard the tile.
  Players can have a maximum of 3 of each type of ammo cube on their player board and 3 powerup cards in their hand.
• Shoot: Now this what I'm talking about.
  The active player may attack any opposing character in range and line of sight. Generally anyone in the same room or in a room on the other side of a door is in sight. Specific weapons may have range limitations or other special rules.
  Many weapons may allow the active player to spend ammo cubes to have additional effects or damage.
  Once a weapon card has been used, the active player plays it down in front them, it is not discarded.
  • Damage, kills and VPs: The rules for how damage occurs and VPs are earned are fairly elaborate.
    • Damage: Each player board has 12 spaces for damage. When the active player inflicts damage on an opponent, then the active player adds damage tokens of their colour to their targets wound track with the following effects.​
      Marking:  Characters may acquire marks from opposing players during the course of the game. These take the form of damage tokens placed in the marked spot on their player board.
      When a character takes damage from an opponent who has marked them, all that player's damage tokens in the marked space are moved to the wound track!
      First Blood: Whoever first puts a damage token on an opponent's player board immediately earns a VP.
      Adrenaline: As a player's board becomes filled with damage tokens, the associated adrenaline moves become available.
      Kill: When the 11th space on a player's board is filled, their character been killed and points are immediately scored.
      Whoever inflicted the most damage (That is, put the most damage tokens on that player's board.) on the killed player immediately earns VPs equal to the highest visible VP number shown along the bottom row of the killed character's board. 2nd highest token count earns the 2nd highest VP and so on.
      ​Multikills: It is possible to kill multiple enemies in a single action. In this case, the active player earns a bonus VP for each multikill.
      Overkill: If the active player managed to also put a damage token in the 12th and final place, they 'overkilled' the character. This means the target of the attack can 'mark' the active player's character.
      Skull token: Whoever was killed should take a red skull and place it on the highest VP value on their player board. Thus when they are killed again, it will earn other players less VP.
      Once the skull has been taken, whoever got the kill puts one of their damage tokens on the vacated killshot space - this will earn VPs at the game end.
      Respawn: The player who was killed now has to respawn. They remove all damage tokens from their wound track and draw a powerup card. Then they discard any powerup card to respawn at the spawn point indicated on the spawn card they played. All other tokens are unaffected.

• Adrenaline moves: As the player takes more and more damage, some move actions become available.
  Move 2 spaces and pick up.
  Move 1 space and shoot/attack.
  In both instances, the usual rules as explained above apply.
• Reload: Reloading only occurs after the active player has resolved their 2 actions. This is done by spending ammo cubes as per the weapon card's cost. After the cubes are spent, they may take the weapon card back into their hand.
  You will note that since reloading occurs after a player's actions, a weapon cannot be used twice in a single turn.
• Power up: These may be used as described or discarded for the displayed ammo cube, this can only be done when that type of ammo cube cost needs to be paid. Thus a powerup card cannot simply be discarded to gain an ammo cube.
• Next player: Once the active player has completed their actions and reloading, play progresses to the player on their left.

Endgame
Once the final skull has been taken from the board, it triggers the endgame.
Depending on the game mode chosen, they are 2 ways the game can end.
Sudden Death
The game immediately ends and goes to scoring.
Final Frenzy
In this game mode, each player gets one more turn. All players use flip their player board and action tile to the other sides, using those moves and scoring opportunities for the final round.

Regardless of how the game end is resolved, the game then goes to scoring.
Players earn points from the following sources.

• VPs: All the VPs players accumulated throughout the game for killing other players.
• Living characters: Remaining, unresolved damage tokens on player boards for characters that are still alive. This is calculated as if they had been killed.
• Killshots: Players also earn points for their killshots, whoever has the most damage tokens on the killshot track gains the most bonus VPs, 2nd most tokens gets 2nd highest bonus VPs and so on.

Points are tallied, highest score wins.​

Overall
I'm always a bit suspicious when a tabletop game tries to replicate a twitch based computer game or uses it for inspiration, thematically or otherwise.
Fortunately, Adrenaline does a pretty good job of abstracting this for a board game.
You run, you gun and you pick up, that's about it!

Line of sight and range rules are kept very simple and consequently very quick.
​Attacking is also quick; play a card - that's the damage it does, some extra resources can be spent to tweak it but that's about it. Some of the situational rules regarding specific weapons are definitely a bit fiddly and may well require referring to the rules, as mentioned earlier it's not to much of an issue though.

Rules for scoring kills are also a bit peculiar but the payoff is that you get a balanced scoring system that rewards attacking multiple opponents and encourages the free-for-all nature of a deathmatch. As they rulebook states, there's diminishing returns in constantly attacking one opponent, since because skulls placed on killed players' boards cover the higher scores, meaning less VPs are earned off them from then on.
It's also worth noting that the damage mechanic is essentially an area control mechanic and that the areas being controlled are other players' damage tracks!

Rules for picking up and reloading are also straightforward and adds an extra layer of decision making to consider. Should a player burn through ammo to press the attack/do more damage or try conserve or gain more ammo.
It creates these moments where attacks are followed by short lulls.
I also like the rule that when a weapon is used, it doesn't come back into play until the following turn. it stops powerful weapons being overused and incentivises players to look for synergy between weapon cards.

Gameplay wise, Adrenaline is very much a game of reacting to what other players are doing and the landscape will change every turn. Especially as in relative terms, the game board is quite small, players will very much be in each other's faces a lot of the time.
Players will look for opportunities to exploit, such as hitting multiple enemies at once (Damage diversification is key to earning VPs.) or minimising exposure to attacks to themselves (Although this can be very hard considering how focused the game board is.).
It goes without saying that Adrenaline is very much an aggressive game of direct conflict and player interaction. If this isn't your sort of thing, then you probably won't enjoy Adrenaline
The game also feels a little like a miniatures wargame game albeit in a very loose way.

I think that's why I found it a little unengaging. Fun and clever but not quite what I want out of a game.
I can't fault Adrenaline, it does what it sets out to do and if if you're looking for a first-person shooter inspired game with lots of aggressive interactive gameplay then Adrenaline is one to consider.

Personally though, if someone wanted to play it, I would do so without hesitation but it wouldn't be a first pick for me.

7th February 2023

Tuesday has come around again, that means it's time for more gaming goodness with the Woking Gaming Club at The Sovereigns in Woking.

Horrified: American Monsters is the follow up to the excellent Horrified and you can read my blog on it here.
Like the original, this is a cooperative adventure in which the heroes (In this instance investigators from the Federal Bureau of Paranormal Investigation) stop the encroachment of monsters from American folklore into a town/city.

So how does Horrified: American Monsters game stack up against the original?

Monster mats: As with the original game, each of the game's monsters comes with their own mat that manages how to defeat them.

All the components for Horrified: American Monsters are good.
The tokens and tiles feel sturdy while cards are of a normal quality. Because the monster mats are fairly large, they feel a little flimsy but unless you go out of your way to abuse them, they should be fine.
The game uses card standees for both players and citizen which means there's about 20 of them - which is a lot. They're constructed of thick card and will stand up to being handled.
While plastic, the dice with their slightly rounded corners are good quality.
As with the original, each of the game's monsters is represented by a plastic figure in their respective colour. The quality is fairly good, which is to say good enough for a board game.

The game's artwork is high quality with good portraits for the heroes, citizens and monsters. Artwork on the tokens, cards and monster mats also look good and suitably moody.
The game board contains probably the most notable artwork; a eye catching city with recognisable buildings but is importantly, also free of clutter.
Wisely, the game has a sort of mid twentieth century theme to the art which gives it a sort of timeless quality.

Most of the game's iconography can be found on the bottom of the monster cards and generally, the complexity is equal to that of the original. 

How's it play?
Like the original, Horrified: American Monsters is a cooperative game about squaring up to monsters threatening the game's town/city, There's a few differences from the original, most obviously in the interactions with the monsters the manner in which they are rendered vulnerable and defeated
The rules for frenzy work a little differently and the events on the monster cards are tailored for the game and possibly, so are the perk cards.
Otherwise, the game is pretty much identical with its predecessor. I'm not going to blog about at length about the rules or game play.
For that you can just read my original blog.

3rd February 2023

Friday is here! I'm at the office in Woking for some after work gaming.

As the name might suggest, Formula D is a game based on Formula 1 racing - but with dice! It's also the spiritual successor to the fantastic Formula Dé, a game I played 'back in the day'.
How does it hold up? Let's see.

All of Formula D's components are good quality. The game board and player tiles feel sturdy, as does the player board.
While the cars are quite tiny, they are all well sculpted, colourful and overall look great.
I was a bit sceptical of having player boards with pegs and a groove for the gearstick but in practice works well enough and does away the need for pencils and erasers which were needed for the original Formula Dé.
Perhaps the only criticism would be for the tokens, which are a bit small and fiddly. However, there's no other way to fit them on the track so it's a bit of a necessary evil.

The player tiles feature some nice colourful art with F1 drivers on one side and street racers on the other side. The street racers have definite anime look to them.
But the standout artwork appears on the game boards which feature fantastic illustrations of their locales. A lot detail has been put into the art, you can even see crowds of people.

All the iconography on the track are numbers and arrows and are easily understood. The colours/shapes of the gears are also easy to understand.
However, the icons used on player tiles could be a little clearer, I think more stylised icons would have been more helpful.
Finally the positioning of the resource tracks on the player board could have been done differently to improve usability. Specifically, the gearbox, brake and engine tracks could have been put together, since these are spent when skipping gears - more on skipping gears below.

How's it play?
Setup
The setup and rules description here are for the standard version of the game using the F1 setup

• Players: Give each player a player board, holder and associated pegs and gearstick. Put the standard side of the board into the holder.
  Then give each player a player tile and the F1 car with colours that correspond to their player tile. Position the tile alongside the holder. Place the pegs in their corresponding positions as dictated by their player.
• Game board: Put out the game board with the F1 side-up.
• First player: Determine the order on the starting grid and place each player's car in the relevant spot.
  This can be done by players rolling the black 20-sided die.
  Alternatively, the game has rules for getting qualifying times which involve each player doing a lap in the fewest number of moves and shortest time.

On to play
Formula D does not use a traditional turn order, instead a player's position on the track determines when they take their turn in the round. Whoever is in the lead goes first and becomes the active player, whoever is 2nd goes second and so on, until the last player has had their turn.
Then a new round begins and any changes in position will be carried over to the player turn order.
During a player's turn, they must perform the following.

• Start: This actually only occurs for each player's first action of the game and determines if they get a good start or not.
  The player rolls the black die, a bad start means they only move 1 space, a flying start means they move 4 spaces, in either instance they end their turn in 1st gear. If they got an average start, they move into 1st gear and roll the 1st gear die.
• Change gear: Other than the race start, at the beginning of every turn, the active player must decide whether to stay in the same gear or go up or down a gear. The gear they are in will determine which die they roll for movement.
  Change up: The active player may go up 1 gear.
  Change down: The active player may go down 1 gear, or possibly more.
  • Skipping gears: When going down gear, a player may choose to skip gears, i.e., go down more than one gear. E.g., skipping a gear allows a player to drop from 5th gear to 3rd by skipping 4th. A player may skip up to a maximum of 3 gears, allowing them to go from 6th to 2nd gear for example.
    However for each gear skipped a resource must be spent, they come from gearbox, brake and engine.
• Roll and move: Once the active player has settled on their gear, they must roll the pertinent die and move their car as many spaces as the die rolls according to the following rules:
  Full move: The active player must use all the movement for their car.
  Traffic: The active player's car cannot move through other cars' spaces, they must go around them instead.
  Arrows: If the active player's car moves on to a space with an arrow, they must follow the direction(s) of that arrow when moving on.
  Straights: If the active player is moving their car along a straight, they cannot zigzag to use up movement. Furthermore, they can only do 2 lane changes and cannot go back into a lane they were already in during the current turn. Essentially players should move their car along the shortest route possible.
  Having said that, players can change lanes to avoid other cars or hazards.
  ​Corners: When a car enters a corner, it must end or 'stop' a number of turns in that corner as determined by the corner's details. Thus, a 2-stop corner requires the player's car to end 2 turns in that corner.
  • Overshooting a corner: If a car is in a 1-stop corner (Or only has 1 stop left in a 2 or 3 stop corner.), then they can go through the corner's exit and overshoot the it to some degree.
    For each space a car overshoots the corner, they must spend 1 tyre WP. Additionally, brake WPs can be spent to lessen movement and thus move less spaces.
    If a car needs to make 2 or more stops in a corner and it overshoots, then it is eliminated from play.
• Additional rules: The description above covers the gist of the game but Formula D has numerous situational rules. Many of these are resolved by using the black 20-sided die.
  Contact: If a car ends its movement adjacent to one or more other cars, there is a chance they will make contact. This costs body WPs
  Overrevving: There's a chance that cars in 5th & 6th gears will lose a engine WP when any car in 5th or 6th gear gets a maximum result on their gear die.
  Debris: Certain events can leave debris on the track, if a car has to go over the debris, there's a chance they can loose a handling WP.
  Pits: In a race with more than 1 lap, there are rules to pitting, which allows a car to recover all their tyre WPs.
• Advanced rules: There are a number of optional advanced rules that can be applied to the game. Mostly these are to do with 3 lap races and running a championship.
  ​Custom cars: Instead of having WPs assigned to a car as per a player tile. With these rules, players can assign WPs to the resources as they see fit.
  Tyres: With these rules, just F1, players can choose different types of tyres, such as hard, soft and wets. They can each have an effect on a car's performance, they are also effected by weather.
  Weather: There are rules for different weather conditions such as dry and rainy or changeable weather. Different weather conditions will effect cars differently. Furthermore different types of tyres will behave differently in differing weather conditions.
  I think that's pretty much it for the F1 rules.

Endgame
The first car to cross the start/finish line after completing the prescribed number of laps, wins! Second across the line finishes 2nd and so on.

Overall
I'll start by mentioning that while not part of the base game, there are 6 map packs for Formula D, each providing 2 additional tracks to the game. generally each pack features a street racing track as well as a real-world inspired circuit.
​It should also be noted that Formula D is almost identical to earlier iterations of the game, this means the game is fully compatible with all the racetracks from those previous games. This is fantastic, because if like me, you have a bunch of tracks from Formula Dé, it greatly increases the longevity of the game.
I'm sure it was deliberate on the part of the producers of Formula D and was a wise move.

I've seen Formula D criticised for being too luck based but without that element of luck, there's no risk and risk is at the heart of what makes Formula D so good.

You see, as a racing game, Formula D is not really a 'simulation', I mean how could it be? However, one thing it does emulate very well is the feel of having to 'push the envelope', how racers try to take it to the edge, how they take risks and how players in Formula D will also need to take risks, or more precisely, when to take risks
Unlike many games, playing too sensibly or prudently is a sure way to finish second in Formula D!

This all ties in with what Formula D is all about - which is managing corners, specifically the gear and consequently the speed of a car when it goes through corners.
This is not quite as simple as it sounds though: ​Ideally, players will want to be in as higher gear as possible for optimal movement at all times. However, players will need to be mindful of their resources, overshooting corners by too much or too often (Especially early in a race.) can have ramifications later. Sometimes overshooting will have an advantage, sometimes it won't it'll just be a waste of WPs.
This is all contextual of course, depending on a car's position relative to a corner, players will need to adapt their tactics to racing through that corner, even the position of opponent's cars can effect the players behind.
Players will also need to be wary of 2 or 3 stop corners and resist the temptation entering the corner in too higher a gear and too fast: In real racing, sometimes going into a corner slower means coming out faster, this can hold true in Formula D too.

Another time a player may take a big is when an opponent is ahead in a corner.
E.g., if that opponent ahead exits the corner in 3rd gear to avoid overshooting, the player behind may want to risk taking going up a gear and exiting in 4th. It's a real advantage to exit corners in a gear higher than your rivals. If you look at the distribution of numbers on the dice, the maximum speed on a gear die is generally the lowest speed on the next highest die.

In terms of negatives, player elimination is a thing here (I'm not a fan of player elimination.) and players can crash out and be sat twiddling their thumbs. Although this sort of thing generally only might occur when approaching the end of a race and back markers push hard to try and get on the podium.
Playing time can also potentially be an issue. Races can last 1-3 laps and you can expect a race to on average last 1 hour per lap. If you decide to play a full race, don't be surprised to lose an entire afternoon or morning to the race. Which is not necessarily a bad if that's what you want.
Also, with it's small components and 6 resources, Formula D can be a little fiddly.

Quibbles aside, Formula D is a fun, game and it's satisfying when you manage pull if risky manoeuvres and manage to fly from corner to corner. There's also a genuine, palpable surge of pleasure when you go into 6th gear, roll that 30-sided die and blasting down that straight.
Formula D is mid-weight game that fits it theme well and presents players with conundrum of when and how much risk to take. Who would have thought roll-and-move mechanics could be so well implemented.
Formula D is a game I have played a lot in its various iterations and I've always enjoyed it. If you want a racing game with a strong thread of push-you-luck running through it, then this is one to try. 

28th January 2023

Wogglecon 6, a day of gaming at the Bisley Scout Hall continues and the next game of the day is Skulk Hollow.

I didn't know that it turns out that little anthropomorphic fox dudes and giant stone creatures seem to really hate each: Which is what Skulk Hollow is all about in this asymmetrical strategy game!

What's in a game?
Skulk Hollow is a 2-player game where one player takes on the role of a 'Foxen' hero who leads a band of Foxen warriors against a lone guardian who is a literal colossal stony force of nature.
​Each player has their own unique decks, components and gameplay.

• Board: Skulk Hollow uses a modestly sized square board which is divided into a 3x3 grid. Unusually, during play the board is rotated 45' diamond configuration, this all the spaces are actually diamond shaped.
  Each of the 9 grid spaces sort of have their own visual theme. Additionally, 2 opposing corners are the 'start spaces'.

• Green wound tokens: These wooden tokens are used to track damage on the guard board.​
  ​

The component quality in Skulk is excellent.
The tokens and meeples all feel solid and look great. Obviously the massive guardian meeple is the notable standout component, yes, perhaps you could call it a gimmick but it fits thematically.
The use of card boxes is a nice touch of presentation.

The art is equally high quality. Skulk Hollow uses a coloured line illustration somewhat cartoonish style that's colourful, bright, detailed and suits the games slight whimsical (At least as whimsical as 2 factions battling each other can get!) nature.
I've found that anthropomorphic art can be divisive as a style but I think the anthropomorphic character art on card looks pretty good regardless of what your stance is.
The game board also looks great and I like how compact it is.

With regards to iconography, Skulk Hollow uses fair amount but it all seems pretty self-explanatory. Icons for movement are easily understood, as are the icons for actions such melee, leap, etc.
I don't imagine players having any problem understanding the game.

How's it play?
Setup

• Roles: First determine who will play the Foxten hero and guardian.
• Board: Put out the game board, as stated earlier, it should positioned in a 'diamond' orientation.
• Guardian player: The guardian chooses a guardian card box of their choice, then they take the relevant guardian player mat and guardian board.
  The player mat will tell the player how to set up for the game.
  Finally the guardian player takes their action deck and shuffles it into a face-down deck and draws cards to their hand limit - which is determined by the guardian player mat.
• Foxen player: This player now chooses one of the Foxen Leaders takes the Foxen player mat.
  ​The Foxen leader and Sentinel cards are immediately put into play and their respective meeples should be placed on their starting spaces.
  Then all the hero unit cards and order cards should be shuffled into a face-down deck, the Foxen player should then draws up to their hand limit - as determined by their Foxen hero mat.

On to play
Being a 2-player game, Skulk Hollow uses a very traditional turn order with one player completing their turn before play moves over to their opponent and continues alternating between them for the entirety of the game.
Additionally, the Foxen hero player always starts.

During their turn, the player will have a number of actions points (AP) available to them which is determined by which Foxen hero/guardian they chose, although typically this is 2-3 APs.

• Actions: The active player can choose from the following actions.
  • Play card: This is the most common action in Skulk Hollow and there  are a wide variety of actions that can be performed, some common to both players and some unique to each. 
    Gain power: This action is available to the Foxen hero player but only certain guardians. Functionally, it works the same for both players. The player will gain power cubes as listed on the played card. These cubes do not go directly on to either any heroes cards or guardian board, instead they go into a central 'reserve'. More on power later.
    Move: This action allows the Foxen player to move one of their units or the guardian player to move the guardian 1 space. Arrows on the card will indicate how the movement can occur.
    Play hero card: This action is only available to the Foxen hero player. If they have a hero unit card in their hand, they can spend a AP to put it into play. When the card is played, it's pertinent meeple should be placed on the board.
    Use power: This is only available to the guardian player and it allows the guardian to use the power listed on the card and as per it's description on the guardian player mat.
    Guardians have a range of powers but generally they involve dealing wounds to the Foxen heroes.
    Hero actions: Only the Foxen player can use these 3 actions for their units.
    When playing a card, the player choose from the action at the top of the card or the bottom, not both. furthermore, only heroes with a symbol matching the action can use it. Thus, a hero unit must have a boot symbol on their card to use the leap action.
    • Leap: If the hero unit is on the same space as the guardian, they can use the leap action to jump on it! This means their meeple is moved on to the guardian board. Additionally, if a hero unit is already on the guardian board, they can use the leap action to move to a different location, following one of the dotted lines.
    • Melee: A hero unit that is on the guardian board may use the melee action to inflict 1 wound on their current location
    • Missile: This action allows a hero with the missile icon to make a ranged attack on the guardian and they do not need to be on the guardian board to inflict wounds. There are some restrictions including:
      Fire: If a hero has the 'fire' tag, they can only launch a missile attack from a space on the board adjacent to the guardian's space.
      Hurl: This tag allows a hero to launch a missile attack while on the same space as the guardian on the game board.
  • Prepare: This action requires an AP and either player may perform it. It allows the player to discard a card and draw 2 new ones.
  • Spend power: This action does not actually require any APs. Instead it uses a power cube that has been allocated to either a hero or guardian.
    Each cube spent this ways grants the respective player an additional action to the unit/guardian that spend the cube. This allows them to perform an action as displayed on their respective card/board, or to move.
• End of turn: Once the active player has used all their APs, they must do the following.
  Draw cards: The player should draw cards to reach their hand limit. If their current hand is equal to or above the limit, ignore this step.
  Allocate power: If the active player had gained power cubes during this turn, they now allocate them to their units/guardian as they see fit.
  Opponent's turn: Play now progresses to the active player's opponent.

​Additional rules

• Wounds: There are some rules regarding how wounds are manged, which is slightly different for each player:
  • Hero unit: If all the heart spaces on a hero unit's card are filled, that hero is eliminated, it's meeple is removed from play and it's card is placed into the discard pile. Potentially that hero can come back into play if the discard pile is shuffled into a new deck.
  • Foxen leader: If the Foxen leader has all its heart spaces filled, it's pretty bad news for the Foxen player. However, there is something the Foxen leader can do to avoid damage, which is called...
    Banding: Basically, if there are other Foxen hero units in the same game board space as the leader, then the unit(s) take the damage instead, presumably as they throw themselves into harm's way. Thus the leader cannot be targeted when not alone.
  • Guardian: Wounds affect the guardian in 2 ways.
    Powers: On the guardian board, each power's location will have several heart spaces, if all  wound spaces on a power's location are filled, then the guardian player can no longer use that power until they somehow heal at least 1 wound.
    Full wounds: If the guardian board has all it's heart spaces filled, then it's bad news for the guardian player...
• Depleting action deck: If any time a player empties their action deck, they then simply shuffle their discard pile into a new deck.

​Endgame
There are 3 ways the game end can be triggered.

• If the Foxen leader has all the heart spaces on their card filled, they are defeated and the guardian player immediately wins.
• If the guardian board has all it's heart spaces filled, the guardian is defeated and the Foxen heroes player immediately wins.
• Each guardian has their own unique victory condition. If that condition is met, then the guardian player immediately wins.

Overall
Skulk Hollow has asymmetrical and card driven gameplay which presents players with some challenging, meaningful choices and options.

Players will instinctively want to play cards with maximum efficiency to inflict maximum damage but sometimes because of their hand of cards, players won't be guaranteed having the card to make the move they they need and they'll be forced to adapt.
This can be a little frustrating but also makes hand management quite important, sure a player can use a strong card now but sometimes it's worth keeping hold of it for perhaps a more effective use in a later round. It should be mentioned that some of the guardians have smaller hand sizes, meaning they are trickier to play.

Of course, players will also want to watch their opponents, paying attention to which cards they play and when. - There's a bit of higher level play here about tracking opponent's actions, essentially a bit of card counting.

Otherwise it's quite tricky to describe gameplay; with 4 Foxen leaders and 4 guardians, the various combinations will at least to some extent dictate player tactics - as will the actions of opponents. Skulk Hollow feels like it's about playing the player as much as playing the game.

Finally; Skulk Hollow is a 2-player game and I'm always a bit wary of 2-player games as they can revert to a traditional 1-on-1 directly confrontational game, this is definitely the case with Skulk Hollow. While the game is not particularly chess-like, with moving pieces about a board to eliminate your opponent, it does provide something of a chess-like experience and to be honest, it's a playstyle that I'm not personally overly enamoured with. Your mileage will of course vary.

Having said all of that; I like to think that I can recognise a well crafted game when I play one and that's what I think this is.

Thematically, Skulk Hollow is quite strong.
The 'numerous weaker units vs a single giant enemy' gameplay draws inspiration from some classic older games.
While, with its climbing on to, running around and stabbing bits of a colossal monster, it's undeniable that Skulk Hollow also takes some thematic inspiration from a certain videogame and it makes for a entertaining concept to add to a board game.
It adds up to an interesting game, both visually and mechanically.

it is a mid-weight, asymmetrical game that features a lot of player interaction and conflict with moderate tactics and touch of luck. The various combinations of the 2 battling factions also provides a fair bit of replayability.
If you want a 2-player game with those elements, Skulk Hollow is worth a look.