26th November 2019

Tuesday evening at 'The Sovereigns' in Woking continues.

The second and final game of the night was 'Architects of the West Kingdom'.

As an architect it's your job to rebuild the errr.... West Kingdom!
So it appears that in this game, you'll be rubbing shoulders with virtuous members of the clergy and getting 'down and dirty' with shady criminals. The life of an architect, eh?
 
Architects of the West Kingdom is a pretty standard worker placement game, but a worker placement game with a couple of extra little twists.

What's in a game?
There's quite a lot to Architect of the West Kingdom and this is reflected in the components.

• Game board: As you'd expect for a worker placement game, there's lots of spots to place workers. There's also a couple of card tracks, a 'Cathedral track, a 'Guildhall track' as well as a virtue track. Interestingly there's also tax stand and a prison.
• Tax stand: There's a cardboard cut out basic 3d building that is used to represent the tax stand. When certain taxes are paid, they go directly into the tax stand. This is only 3d building in the game, it's bit unnecessary, but it's a nice touch.
• Reward cards: When a player contributes to the construction of the Cathedral, they earn a reward.
• Apprentice cards: Used with one of the card tracks. Apprentices grant the owning player some sort of bonus when acquired.
• Building cards: These cards contain 'plans' for buildings that players can build.
• Multiplier cards:
• Debt cards: These are double sided cards, one side represents being in debt (Not a good thing.) and the other side represents having paid that debt off.
• Black market cards: These cards are also double sided and represent resources that can be acquired via the black market. one side represents 'small' and the other 'large' markets.
• Resources: There are 6 kinds of resources in this game: Clay, wood, stone, silver, gold & marble.
• Player boards: These are double sided. One side is for the standard game and the other for the variable.
• Meeples: Every player gets 20 meeples to use as workers.

The cards are quite nicely illustrated. The artwork on the board is even nicer, depicting the different buildings and areas that workers 'use'. It's clear some effort has gone into the artwork.

Hows it play?
Setup

• Determine the starting player.
• Give each player a personal board, 20 meeples and currency dependant on starting order.
• Give each player 4 building cards. Each player keeps 1 card and passes the remaining cards to the player to the left. This is repeated 4 times.
• Each player puts a marker on the starting spot of the virtue track.
• Construct the tax stand and put 4 coins into it.
• Fill the card tracks with apprentice cards.

Now we're ready to start. But first one of the differences in to normal worker placement games needs to be explained.
There are 3 ways to place workers in the game, this is dependant on the symbol used on the game board:

• First, when placing a worker, the player may have to pay some currency (In the form of tax.) to do it. Depending on where the worker is placed, this currency may go into the tax stand or supply.
• Small circle: Only a single meeple can occupy a small circle at any one time.
• Large circle: Any number of meeples from any number of players can occupy a large circle at any time. Furthermore, the more workers a player places into a large circle, the more they get out of it. If a player puts a worker into the 'forest' region, they will gain 1 wood. If on a later turn they place a 2nd worker into the wood region, they will gain 2 wood, 3 wood for a 3rd worker and so on. Other players' workers do affect each other.
• Guildhall: When a player creates a building, they must place a worker into the Guildhall, this worker is now out of the game.

Now we know how worker placement works, it's time to explain what all the buildings and areas do:

• Black market: The black market consists of 3 small circles. Using a black market space allows a player to carry out the action shown below the 3 circles. This is either acquire the good(s) shown on either the small card stack or large market card stack. Or the player can acquire a apprentice or building card. No matter they choose to do, the must lose 1 virtue when using the black market.
• Cathedral: Players can 'contribute' to the building of the cathedral. This is done by paying the cost and moving their piece up the track, this also grants the player a reward card and whatever benefit it confers. At the end of the game, the further up the cathedral track a player is, the more victory points they acquire during the endgame.
• Town centre: The town centre has a large circle. Amusingly, the town centre allows you to capture workers belong to other players (Or even your own!) and place them on your personal board. Each worker a player has in the town centre allows them to capture all the workers of a single colour on a space. Putting more workers on the town centre allows the player to capture even more workers. Why would a player want to capture workers, well see below.
• Guardhouse: Has a large circle. There are several different actions you can perform when putting a worker on the guardhouse. Firstly you can put workers you've captured in prison! For money! That's right, capturing workers and imprisoning them is a way to make money. Secondly, if the active player has workers in prison, they can release them back on to their personal board. Thirdly, pay money (Or get a debt card.) and lose 1 virtue to take back workers from another player's board. Finally, the active player can pay off a debt card.
• Quarry, Forest, Mine & Silversmith: These 4 locations all have large circles and are used to acquire resources. Placing workers on the quarry gets the active player clay, forest gets wood, mine gets stone or gold and silversmith gets silver.
• King's storehouse: Has a large circle. Placing workers here allows the active player to buy virtue and/or marble with resources.
• Guildhall: Putting a worker here allows the active player to play a building card (Provided they also pay the resources required.).
• Workshop: Has a large circle. Placing a worker here allows the active player to recruit an apprentice. There are 2 tracks of 4 apprentices. To recruit apprentice further along to the right of the track, you either need to have more workers in the circle, or pay. The track behaves like a conveyor belt, so when an apprentice is taken, cards slide to the left to fill the gap and new cards are added to the right.
• Tax stand: Has a large circle. As stated above, money will be paid into the tax stand. If the active player places a worker here they can take (OK steal actually!) all the currency in the tax stand. Doing this costs 2 points of virtue.

Overall
There are a couple of interesting mechanics in Architects of the West Kingdom, particularly how they interact with each other.

Being able to put multiple workers into a space to gain increasing results seems overpowered. But when a player puts a lot of workers into a single space, they can just become a target for another player to capture. Obviously when capturing workers, players will want to do it as efficiently as possible, because there's money to be made when putting them in prison.
If a player can predict their opponent's moves, stealing their workers can really screw with them.
Another thing to consider is that players have no way to get their workers back other than having them captured by other players or capturing them themselves.
Being able to manage your workers in this way can avoid those pesky debt cards, which themselves are a clever little addition to the game.
The virtue track, black market and cathedral also add an extra element that helps differentiate the game.

I enjoyed this game, I think it's fairly good.Generally I felt like I always had options and meaningful decisions to make. Which all I really want from a game.
​
If you really like worker placement games, you'll probably like Architects of the West Kingdom. It's just different enough to justify its existence.
Or, if you don't own any worker placement games and you want one. You may want to consider this game, 

26th November 2019

Tuesday gaming night at 'The Sovereigns' is here.

The first game of the evening was 'Nine Tile Panic'.

Nine Tile Panic is a game that comes in a little box that delivers a lot of stress!
This is a game all about building a city but not just building a city. It's a game about building a city in a strict time limit!
Thinking about it, maybe we should get real city planners to play this game? You won't find any unoccupied roadworks in Nine Tile panic let me tell you.

What's in a game?
'Nine Tile Panic' has few components:

• ​Tiles: 45 double sided tiles, 5 identical sets of 9 cards for each player. The tiles depict different types of roads such as crossroads, T-junctions etc. The tiles also depict dogs, men-in-black, aliens, ufos, burgers, buildings etc.
• Objective cards: 26 cards that have objectives that need to be met each round.
• Order markers: There are 5 of these that are used to rank the finishing order at the end of every round.
• Scoreboard: Tracks scores!

The components are reasonably colourful with simple illustrations.

How's it play?
Before playing, give each player a set of tiles.
Nine Tile Panic is played over a series of rounds. Each round is scored before play proceeds to the following round.
A round goes like this:

• Set out order markers, according to the number of players.
• 3 objective cards are drawn. These objectives tend to be quite diverse and unusual. Each objective has variable levels of success. The better each objective is completed, the more points are earned. An objective might be 'have as many men in black pointing their guns at aliens as possible.
• Players now have to place their 9 tiles down in a 3x3 grid in such a way as to maximise scoring from the objective cards (Both sides can be used.). Players must however, follow this rule: Any roads on the tiles must enter and exit the 3x3 grid and must be connected to each other as required, there can be no 'dead ends'.
• Players can choose when to 'stop' building their city. The first player to 'stop', takes the highest value order marker and turns over the hourglass timer.
• All remaining players have 90 seconds to complete their cities. When a player stops building their city, they take the next highest value order marker. This continues until all players have taken an order marker, or the timer runs out.
• Once the 90 seconds are over, any player who has not claimed an order marker is eliminated. Furthermore, any city that does not meet the criteria for connected roads is eliminated from that rounds scoring.

Scoring:

• Scoring is based on the number of players participating. For a 5 player game, scores vary from 1 to 5, for a 4 player game it's 1 to 4 and so on.
• Each of the 3 objectives is scored separately. The player who has achieved the most of an objective will score the maximum points for it (5 points for a 5 player game.), the second best player to achieve the objective will get the second highest score. This continues until the lowest achieving player receives 1 point. Obviously, players who were eliminated in this round will score 0 (In all objectives.). Ties are settled using the order marker (Highest value wins ties.).
• This is done for all 3 objectives. Thus; in a 5 player game, a player who gets highest in all 3 objectives would score 15 points.
• Once all 3 objectives have been scored, a new round with 3 new objectives will begin.

Endgame
Play continues until the score limit has been reached. For a 5 player game this is 25 points.
Final scores are tallied, highest score wins. 

Overall
Nine Tile Panic is a small, quick to learn and quick to play game. A game can be 20 more than 20 minutes.

The game is supposed to be fun, but it should be called 'Nine Tile Stress!'. Why? Because there will always be that one player who's going to finish their city too quickly just to watch the other players suffer! That's why. Always!
You'll be swearing under your breath as any strategy you've concocted will fly out of the window and you'll just be trying to make any city you can!

And seriously, that's what makes Nine Tile Panic a good game and fun too.
If you have friends who like real time games, you should play this with them.
And if you have friends who hate real time games you should definitely play this with them!

24th November 2019

Sunday gaming at 'The Sovereigns' comes to a conclusion.

The final game of the day was 'Mysterium'
Read my blog about it here.

24th November 2019

Sunday at 'The Sovereigns' in Woking continues.

The next game was 'Codenames'.
I have it on good authority that spies, above all other things, really like having  codenames.
So it's a good thing that the game 'Codenames' is all about spies.
Actually, it's a team based card game about words, but I digress...

Whats in a game?
blah

• Word cards: Word cards are double sided and as the name suggests have a single word written on each side. There are 200 cards, so 400 words available.
• Key cards: Key cards are square cards used to identify which word cards belong to each faction (More on this below.). There are 40 cards and they can be used in any of 4 orientations, giving 160 combinations.
• 8 blue agent tiles: For the... blue team
• 8 red agent tiles:  Yes, for the red team.
• Double agent tile: A double sided double agent, blue on one side and red on the other.
• 7 innocent bystander tiles: These are white.
• Assassin tile: Black as the assassin's heart!
• Hourglass: An optional timer, used if player's feel the need to hurry the game or stress the players!

The word cards are standard cards without artwork. All the tiles are made of thick card and are well illustrated.

How's it play?
Codenames requires a bit of setup.

• All players must be split into 2 teams (Red and blue.) and each team should assign one player to be their 'spymaster'. Give the red & blue agent tile stacks to their respective spymasters.
• The word cards should be shuffled, then 25 cards should be drawn. Place these cards in the playing area in a 5x5 grid.
• Shuffle the key cards. 1 key card should be drawn only by the 2 spymasters. The key card will show the location of the blue and red agents, as well as innocent bystanders and 'the assassin'. Finally, the key card dictates which team goes first.
• Give the double agent tile to the starting team's spymaster, who should flip the tile to their colour and add it to their stack of tiles. Thus the starting team has 9 tiles instead of 8.

Now we're ready to go.

• The objective of Codenames is for the each team to find the words in the 5x5 grid that represent agents of their own colour. However only the spymasters know these locations. The spymasters try to pass on the locations to their team through the use of cryptic clues.
• The clues that a spymaster may give depend on the word cards available to them and is limited to a single word and a number.

For example:

• The blue spymaster may know that the word cards 'cat', 'pigeon' & 'ant' are all blue agents, so the spymaster might say, "Animal, three.". 'Animal' because they are all animals and that words links them all and 'three' because there are 3 of them.
• Once they've been given a clue, the rest of the blue team must try and guess which words in the grid that the clue applies to. To choose a card, one of the players must touch that card.
• If a blue word is selected, the blue spymaster covers that word card with a blue agent tile. Because they selected correctly, the blue team can continue selecting cards, up to 3 times (Which was the number the  spymaster gave.).
• If the blue team selects an innocent bystander card, then it is covered with an innocent bystander tile and the blue team's turn immediately ends.
• If the blue team selects a red agent, then the red spymaster covers the card with a red agent tile and the blue team's turn immediately ends.
• If the blue team selects 'the assassin', that word is covered with the assassin tile and the blue team immediately lose the game!
• A team has to make at least 1 selection, they do not need to make any more and can pass at that point. Thus, the blue team may make up to 3 selections, but after the first selection, they can pass on the rest.
• Furthermore, on a following turn, if the blue team correctly selects all the cards on for the clue for that turn, then they can attempt to select a card that they passed on in a previous turn.
• Once a team has finished with its selection, play progresses to the next team.

Overall
When describing Codenames I've not really explained the dilemma and challenge facing the spymaster players.

The example I used had 'cat', 'pigeon' & 'ant' as all being blue. But in reality, it's more likely that not all of them would be the same colour, 'pigeon' might be red. Now the blue spymaster could simply say, "Animal, two.". But then they run the risk that the team might select 'pigeon' instead of the other choices and if they select the wrong word first, it stops their turn straightaway!

So the spymaster has to select clues that don't draw their teammates to the wrong answer. This can be downright tricky.
Now the spymaster could play it safe and select, "Meow, one." for 'cat' and use 1 word clues. The problem with playing it safe though, is that it probably won't win you the game unless you're already ahead.  So doing 2 or 3 word clues can be a good way of getting ahead.

The same principle applies to the other team members. When the spymaster gives you a clue for 3 words, managing to find all of them grants the team a good advantage. But getting wrong can prove a bad thing.

It's a good implementation of a 'risk/reward' mechanic. A successful risk pays off and a unsuccessful risk penalises.

There's only one small drawback to Codenames and that is that it basically needs at least 4 players to play and ideally even numbers of players too.
The game goes up to 8 players, but I can't see a reason why team size should be limited to 4 (Other than it takes a longer to come to a consensus with bigger teams!).

Codenames is easy enough to learn to be a 'crossover' game and has a high replay value. It's probably a bit too long for a filler game, but makes an excellent party game. Particularly when with larger groups and/or family members. 

24th November 2019

Sunday at 'The Sovereigns' in Woking. The 50 Fathoms hiatus continues, so it's board games instead.

We began with 'Tsuro: The game of the Path'.
And that's what Tsuro is, a game about paths, quite figuratively. It's also quite abstract and there's not much to say about the theme.

What's in the game?
The game comes in a small package.

• Board: The board depicts a 6x6 square grid. Along the outside the perimeter of the board, each grid square is marked with 2 'entry' paths that lead into the board.
• Path tiles: There are 35 of these square tiles. Each side of a tile has 2 entries/exits and a total of 4 paths that enter/exit the tile. The paths on the tile twist and turn so that the 4 paths can enter and exit in many different combinations.
• Player markers: These are designed to look like stones.

The board and tiles are well made but pretty much standard components. However, the player makers are quality; the game could have easily used tokens are markers, but the game goes ahead an extra step in providing little 3D stone (Plastic actually!) player markers.

How's it play?
Set up is quick and simple.

• Shuffle the tiles and randomly deal 3 to each player forming a hand. The remaining tiles become a draw stack.
• Give each player a player marker. Now each player places their marker on one of the entry paths on the board's perimeter.

​Now the game can begin.

• The active player places a tile from their hand on to the board on the grid adjacent to their marker. The tile can be placed in any of the 4 orientations.
• Then they move their marker along the path that they have connected to. If this connection causes them to leave the board, then that player is eliminated from the game. A player cannot deliberately make their marker exit the board, but may be forced to do so due to circumstances. When a player places a tile, it may move another players marker and cause it to exit the game - eliminating that player. Furthermore, placing a tile may cause one marker to crash into another marker, in this instance, both markers are eliminated from the game.
• Finally, the active play draws a new tile to bring their hand back up to 3 tiles.

As you can see, the rules are simple and straightforward.
Endgame
Play continues until one of the following conditions are met:

• Only 1 marker remains on the board, in which case that player is the winner.
• If, for some mind boggling reason, players manage to place all the tiles down and there are 2 or more markers still left on the board. Then all remaining players share a tied victory.
• If all remaining players are eliminated at the same time, then those players all share a tied victory. ​

Overall
Tsuro is a small game, quick to setup, quick to learn and quick to play.
It is essentially a light 'programming' game that requires a small amount of scrutiny and forethought to try and predict your moves.
The real danger in the game however, comes from the other players, it's impossible to predict what tiles they will play and its impact on you. Essentially you can't rely on planning more than 1 move ahead and have to adapt to other player's moves as they occur, this is particularly true later in the game as the board becomes fuller and options become smaller.

All this unpredictability makes Tsuro fun, as long as you don't try and think too much about what moves you can make.
Additionally, Tsuro plays with up to 8 participants, combined with it's accessibility make it a good choice for party games and fillers. 

19th November 2019

Tuesday board games at 'The Sovereigns' in Woking continues.

The final game of the night was 'Sushi Roll'
See my blog about it here.

19th November 2019

Tuesday, it's the evening, we're at 'The Sovereigns' in Woking, that can only mean one thing, games night!

We began with 'Splendor'.
My blog about it can be found here.

17th November 2019

Sunday lunch time has rolled around and we're at 'The Sovereigns' in Woking. The 50 Fathoms hiatus continues.

Today we played 'Concordia'

Concordia is a resource gathering and economic expansion game set in the Roman era Mediterranean and surrounding areas.
Ah, where would 'euro style' games be without the Roman era Mediterranean? Probably set even more in Renaissance Europe!

What's in a game?
Concordia has quite a lot of components.

• Game board: The main game board is actually double-sided, one side depicts a map of the Mediterranean and surrounding regions, the other is of the Italy peninsula. Regardless of which side is used, they both contain the same features. There are about a dozen different provincial regions and each province contains 2 or 3 cities, each city is labelled A, B, C or D. The map also shows roads and sea-routes between cities. The board also features a status box for each province. There's a card track for 'personality' cards and finally a scoring track.
• City tokens: On one side of these tiles it shows one of the games 5 different resources. On the other side it is labelled A, B, C or D.
• Bonus markers: These are used in conjunction with the provincial status boxes. One side has a resource on it and the other shows some currency.
• Personality cards: There a 5 different decks of personality cards.
• Starter decks: There are identical 'starter' decks for each player.
• Personal board: Each player is given their own board that represents their storehouses. Each personal board has 12 spaces. All resources and meeples must be stored on the player's storehouse.
• Meeples: Lots of meeples, each player has 6 of them! 3 are 'person' meeples and the other 3 are 'ship' meeples.
• Houses: Each player has 15 house tokens.
• Resources: Concordia has 5 different types of resource represented by tokens. In order of lowest value to highest; brick, food, tool, wine and cloth.
• Coins: The game's currency.

Concordia has its fair share of its components and their fairly good quality too. 

It's worth mentioning the games resource tokens, normally it would be typical for the components to be coloured wooden blocks. Not so in Concordia, the tokens are shaped like the resource they represent. Thus the brick tokens look like clay bricks, wine tokens look like wine jugs and so on. It's a nice touch.

Hows it play?
Concordia has a fairly detailed setup. So, here we go.

• After deciding which side of the board to use, turn all the city tokens to the 'letter' side and shuffle them. Then put the 'A' tokens on the 'A' cities, 'B' tokens on the 'B' cities and so on. Turn over all the tokens and it will which resource all the cities will produce.
• Now put a bonus marker in each province's status box. The type of resource that should be put into a province box is the same as the highest value resource produced in any city in that particular province. All bonus markers are initially placed with the resource side-up.
• Shuffle all 5 individual personality decks. Then put them together to create 1 large deck, with the '1' deck at the top and the '5' deck at the bottom. Then draw personality cards and place them on all the spaces on the card track.
• Give each player a storehouse board, 15 houses and 6 meeples in their colour. Each player should place 1 person and 1 ship on the starter city. The remaining 4 meeples go into their storehouse, each meeple takes up 1 space in the storehouse.
• Each player is given some starting currency and resources, the resources must go on to the storehouse board.
• Finally, give a starting deck to each player. Players keep their entire deck in their hand at all times, when cards are played, they go into a discard pile.

So now we can go on to the actual game play.

The very basics of Concordia are simple: The active player plays a card from their hand carries out the action(s) listed on it.
Personality cards can be acquired which perform other actions or are better versions of the starter cards.
The starter cards are: 

• Architect: Playing the Architect card allows the active player to move their colonists (Meeples). The amount of spaces that meeples can be moved is equal to the number of meeples the active player has on the board (At the start a player will have 2 moves.), This can be split amongst the players meeples as they see fit. Movement is a little unusual in Concordia. Obviously 'person' meeples travel by road and 'ship' meeples by sea. But when meeples move they don't move from city to city, they stop on the route between 2 cities instead. A meeple cannot occupy the same space as another meeple. Once the active player has finished moving their meeples, they can build a house on any city that is adjacent to any road/sea route that the active player has a meeple positioned on. Building a house costs currency and resources (The resources required depend upon what the city produces.). Building a house on a city that already has another player's house on it is possible, but costs more currency (But not more resources.).
• Diplomat: Playing the Diplomat allows the active player to copy the topmost card in any other player's discard pile and thus use it's abilities.
• Mercator: Playing the Mercator allows the active player to take 3 currency from the bank. The active player can also perform exactly 2 trades. Each trade allows the active player to buy/sell any amount of a single resource provided they have enough currency/storehouse space to manage it.
• Prefect: Every player starts with 2 of these cards. This card gives the active player the choice to perform one of two different but related actions. The first action is to collect resources. The active player chooses a province and receives the resource displayed on the bonus marker in the province's status box, additionally every player who has a house on a city in the chosen region will receive a resource of the type that the city produces. Then the bonus marker is turned over to the side that shows currency. The second action is to collect currency equal to what is shown on all the 'flipped' bonus markers. When this action is chosen, all bonus markers are put on to their 'resource side.
• Senator: The Senator card allows the active player to buy up to 2 cards from the personality card track. Obviously there is a cost, this is determined from 2 sources, first the cost on the card and secondly the cost on the card track, cards on the left are cheaper than those on the right. When cards are bought, the remaining cards to the right are slid left to fill the gap and new cards are added to spaces on the right. This is a 'conveyor belt' mechanic seen in several other games.
• Tribune: When played, the Tribune card does 3 actions. It allows the active player to take their discard pile and return it to their hand. Secondly, if the active player is retrieving more than 3 cards from the discard pile, they acquire currency. Thirdly, the player can choose to add a new person or ship meeple to the board, after paying the resource cost.

Additional cards
There are more types of cards available in the personality deck. There are specialist cards for each type of resource that allows the player possibly gain extra resources. There are also improved versions of starter cards and cards that make certain actions easier to perform.

There are some more rules, but this is the gist of it

Endgame
There are 2 ways to trigger the endgame. If all the personality cards are bought or if a player builds or their houses. Then the final round is completed.

Scoring is quite detailed and involved, in fact almost convoluted.
All cards are attributed to 1 of 6 Roman gods such as Saturn, Jupiter, Mars etc.
Each 'god' is scored differently: Mars for example, will score a player 2 victory points per meeple they have on the board per Mars card​.

All victory points are tallied, highest score wins.

Overall
Here's the thing, I quite like Concordia, but I can't put my finger on exactly why?

Maybe it's because it's a game about expansion and empire building, but a mercantile empire and not a military one. There is no direct conflict and the worse you can do to another player is to buy a personality card they want, or maybe block a route they want to use. It's all feels very 'eurogame'.

Or maybe it's the deck building element. I feel there's something engrossing about having limited actions and needing to optimise strategies accordingly.
Thinking about it, if there was too much direct competition between players, the deck building and planning wouldn't work so well within the game.

Finally, I thought I would mention the scoring. Because there's 6 different ways to score, it's almost as if you don't need to think about the scoring and can just concentrate on building up your trade empire and let the points take care of themselves.

But anyway, all in all, Concordia is a game I enjoy playing.

16th November 2019

Gaming night at 'Matakishi's' continues.

The final game of the night was 'Ringmaster: Welcome to the Big Top'.

​Step right up! Step right up! Come and see which player can creates the most magnificent circus.
Watch! As players become catastrophically confused by cunning card-plays of weirdness Gasp! As players are perilously perplexed by uncannily unpredictable game mechanics.

Yes Sir! All the fun of the circus!

What's in a game?
Ringmaster is a card and all it has and needs is a deck of cards.
All the cards are illustrated with nice and occasionally humorous pictures. Many of the cards are tongue-in-cheek.
Finally, the game comes with a nifty little draw string to to carry the game in, if you don't want to lug the box about. It's a cool little addition.

How's it play?
First, the deck is shuffled and 3 cards are dealt to each player, the remaining cards from a draw deck. A first player is then determined.
The active player draws a card from the deck and then plays 1 card. 

There are 4 types of card in the game:

• Stars: These cards are played in front of the active player. Star cards tend to give the player some sort of benefit every round.
• Attractions: These are also played in front of the active player.
• Events: When an event is played it is discarded, events can be considered  'one-offs'.
• Sideshows: These cards are played in another player's area and are generally detrimental to them.

Play then proceeds with the player to the left.

I can't really explain much about the rules, because players simply do what's written on the card they're playing.

Endgame
There are no endgame conditions in Ringmaster! OK, that's a bit of an exaggeration, but the endgame is determined by cards that are played. This means that different players will most likely have different winning criteria.

This makes Ringmaster unpredictable and the game tends to end very suddenly and abruptly.

Overall
Ringmaster ticks the right boxes! Easy to learn, quick to play and fun.
As well as random ending conditions, there are cards that occasionally completely change the game, forcing all players to discard their entire hands or every card they've played etc.
Ringmaster can be random and chaotic, but retains enough strategy to still engage players.

If you've just spent the last 3 hours playing a monstrosity of a game that's made your brains dribble out of your ears. Then Ringmaster makes a great finisher for the evening.

16th November 2019

​Saturday night gaming at 'Matakishi's' continues.

The second game of the evening was 'High Society'.

Some people are just obsessed with reputation, luxury, wealth and prestige and will pay anything to elevate it. Well almost anything.
These are the trials and tribulations 'endured' by the aspiring wealthy and privileged, where image is everything.
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What's in a game?
High Society has broadly speaking 2 types of card.

• Bidding decks: There are 5 of these, one for each player. Each deck consists of 11 cards, with values from 1,000 Francs to 25,000 Francs.
• Status cards: There 16 of these oversized cards. 10 luxury cards that score points(Valued from 1-10.), 3 prestige cards that double a player's final score and finally 3 disgrace cards that lower the player's score in different ways

The version that we played is themed to the 'roaring 20's' in Paris and has gorgeous Art Nouveau illustrations on the status cards.

How's it play?
First give each player a 11 card bidding deck. Then shuffle the status cards to form a deck and determine a starting player.

• Play begins by drawing a card from the status deck and placing it face-up in the centre of the playing area.
• What happens next depends on which type of status card is drawn. If a luxury or prestige card is drawn, then normal bidding begins with the starting player.
• Bidding works in a more or less familiar method: The starting player makes an opening bid by playing one or more cards from their card face-up. Play will then progress to the left, players that follow must raise the bid by playing a card (Or cards.) face-up of a higher value. When it comes to a player increasing their bid, they can only add​ to their bid, they cannot take back a card they already played (They cannot make change). Alternatively, a player may choose to pass, in this case any bidding cards they played are returned to their hand and they are out of the bidding. Play continues until all but one player has passed. The winning player discards all the cards they used in the bidding and collects the status card. Whoever wins the bidding is the starting player for the next status card.
• If a scandal card is drawn, the bidding is slightly different. Members of high society want to avoid scandal. So now players are bidding to avoid taking the card. Bidding works as normal, but the first player to pass collects the scandal card and also collects any bidding cards they played. All other players must discard all cards they used when bidding to avoid the scandal card.

And that's it for the rules.

Endgame
4 cards in the status are coloured green, they are the 3 prestige cards and one of the scandal cards.
When the 4th green card is drawn, the game ends immediately - there is no bidding on the 4th green.
Next is the game's sting in the tail. The player who has the least amount of money in their hand is eliminated from the endgame!
The remaining players total the value of their luxury cards and modify them by any prestige/scandal cards they have. Highest score wins.

Overall
There's a few clever little things to think about here.

Because a player can only add to their bid, players will be faced with tricky choices. If you really want a card a card, do you bid low hoping other players won't try and out bid you? Or do you start with a high bid hoping to discourage others and use less cards. For example: Using a 4 and 6 is worse than using a 10, even though they have the same value, in the first case you're using up 2 cards instead of 1 - and you can't bid if you don't have cards.
Also; there's nothing more infuriating then when you want to push up a bid by 1 or 2 and you've got nothing less than a 5 in your hand.

The endgame mechanic adds an extra level of unpredictability to the game. A game can last anywhere from 3 to 15 rounds. Players will know when there's a chance that the game will end because they'll see that 3 green cards have been played, but they won't know exactly when the end is coming. All of this can affect how you bid.

Finally, there's the player elimination in the endgame. The sting in the tail that constantly niggles and lingers in the back of every player's mind when they're playing.
It doesn't matter how well a player has done in the bidding if they're eliminated for having the least money. It is painful.

All in all, High Society is a quick to learn game that is quite fast to play and makes an excellent filler game. It's mechanics push players into making meaningful and tricky decisions. Other than constant stress, what's not to like?